Simply Sewing - UK (2020-04)

refashion

58 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING

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YOUWILLNEED
QTrenchcoat
QMediumweightiron-oninterfacing
10cmx1m(4inx1⁄yd)*
QHandsewingkit
QSewing machine

NOTES
Q*Usethisamountasa guide,the
amountofinterfacingrequiredwill
dependonthewidthandlength of
your trench coat's hem.

CUTTINGTHETRENCH

SteponeFirststepis toestablishwhereyouwant

tocut.Thepockets,thehiddenplacket,andthe

backventallpresentpotentialchallengesto

overcomewhenit comestorehemming.Where

youcutis a matterofpreference,conditionofthe

garment,andhowmuchworkyouwanttodo!^01

SteptwoWeoptedfora verycroppedlookand

cutourcoatatthewaist.Thisremovedthe

pocketsandbackventasanobstacle,butleftthe

concealedplackettocontendwith.Thecentre

frontis alignedandpinnedtogetherandthe

garmentis laidflatandfoldedatthecentreback

withtheliningandoutershellsmoothedflat.^02

StepthreeTheliningandoutershellis cutinone

goapprox.3cm(1in)belowthebuttonas

pictured(01),toallowforhemminglateron.

StepfourOnthebuttonholeplacket,unpickthe

liningwhereit joinstotheplacket,uptothepoint

wherethebuttonhole is and pin it back, out of the

way.^03

StepfiveRepeatonthebuttonplacket.It may

helptotemporarilyremovethebuttonatthis

point.If thereis edgestitchingontheouteredge

oftheplacketsunpickit uptothesamepointas

thelining.Theaimis to be able to open the

plackets out flat.

RESTYLINGTHETRENCH

SteponeSewa lineofmachinetacking1.5cm

(⁄in) in from the raw edge, all along the hem and

includingtheplackets.Don’topentheconcealed

placketoutjustyet,sewthemachinetacking

throughalllayers.Thislineoftackingwillbeused

asa markerforwherethe hem needs to be

presseduplateron.

SteptwoAtthisstage,separatethetop/inner

layersoftheconcealedplacketfromthebottom

layeroftheconcealedplacketandpinoutofthe

way.(You’llneedtosnipthrougha fewofthe

machinetackingstitchesandsome of the original

verticalseamstodoso).^04

StepthreeOnthebacksectionofthehem,press

a 4cm(1⁄in)widestripofinterfacing.If youlook

attheoriginalhemyoucutoffyouwillseeit is

interfaced.Youaremerelycopyingthe

constructionoftheoriginalhemwiththenew

heminthisstep.It is theretoreinforcethefolded

edgeandprovidesomewheretoanchorthe

hemmingstitchthatwon’tshow through to the

outsideofthegarment.^05

StepfourNowopenoutthebuttonplackets

(ignoretheinnerlayeroftheconcealedplacketfor

nowasit’spinnedoutoftheway).Pressoverthe

hemusingthelineofmachinetackingasyour

pressingguide.Thenhandstitchinplaceusing

yourpreferredhemmingstitch,weused

herringbonestitch.Becarefultoonlypickupthe

threadsoftheinterfacingonthemainbodyofthe

garmenttoavoid stitches showing through to the

outside.^06

Step fiveGive everything a good press and fold