Simply Sewing - UK (2020-04)

WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING 59

refashion

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MOREIDEASTOTRY

Shortenthesleevesfora summerjacket.

Usesomeofthecutawaybuttons for

a faux-cuffsleevedetail.

Usetheexcessfabrictoadddetails such

asepaulettesorpockets.

Differentlengthswillcreatedifferent

looks.Considerknee,thighandhip

lengthdepending on the length of your

trenchcoat.

Swapoutthebuttonsfornew or vintage

foraninstantupdate.

Lookattheconstructionoftheoriginal

garmentandletthatguideyouas you

reconstruct your new design.

theplacketsbackintoplace,withthelining
sectionoftheplacketpressedunderinlinewith
thehem.Again,ignoretheinnerlayerofthe
concealedplacket for now as it is pinned out of
theway.
StepsixOntheconcealedplacketsideprickstitch
theliningsectionof the placket to the inside layer
ofthehem.^07
StepsevenNowwewillstitchtheinnerlayerof
theconcealedplacket.Presstherawedgesofthe
innerplacketinwardsandundertothewrongside
(WS)sothatit is 1–2mm shorter than the main
garmenthem.
StepeightPininplace,thenwhipstitchalongthe
foldededge,stitchingit totheundersideofthe
hemtosecure.Stopjustshortoftherawedgeas
you’llneedtotucktheliningunderlateron.
StepnineUsinga closelycolourmatchedthread,
machinestitchthroughalllayerstoreplaceany
topstitchingthatyouhad to unpick to release the
plackets earlier on.^08

STITCHINGTHELINING
SteponeNowontothemainlining.Unpinit and
giveit a goodpresssoit is layingsmoothand
uncreasedalongtherawedge.Sewa lineof
machinetackingasa pressing guide 1.1cm (in) in
fromtherawedge.^09
SteptwoPresstheliningunderusingthetacking
stitchasa pressingguide.Onthe plackets tuck the
lining under as pictured.^10

StepthreeMachinestitchthehemof the lining in

place from placket to placket.^11

FINISHING

SteponePresseverything,thenusepickstitchto

securethelining back to both plackets where you

unpickedit.

SteptwoWhipstitchthebottomedgeofthe

buttonplackettotheinsideofthehem.

StepthreeAnchorthebottomcorneroftheinner

layeroftheconcealedplacket to the outer layer of

the concealed placket.^12