94 WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING
ALWAYSMEASUREYOURSELF
BEFOREyouchoosea patternsize
tocutout.Thesizesdovarygreatly
frompatterntopattern,soit’s
alwaysbesttomeasureyourself
accuratelyandthenrefertothe
pattern’ssizecharttofindyour
size.Thechartwillusuallybe
printedonthepatternenvelope
orontheinstructionsinside.
Measureyourselfinyour
underwearandpreferablyinthe
bra you’ll be wearing underneath
Preparingyourfabricandcutting
outyoursewingpatternaccurately
is justasimportantastheactual
sewing.Washyourfabricbefore
youbeginasfabriccanshrinkand
run. Once dry, press it well.
PREPARINGTHEPATTERN
Patternsoftencomewithseveral
optionsofdifferentfinishessoyou
mayhavemorepiecesthanyou
need.Theinstructionsheetwilltell
youwhichpiecestouse.Roughly
cutoutallofthepiecesoutsidethe
linesthenpressthepiecesusing
a dryironona lowheatto remove
the folds and creases.
CUTTINGOUTTHEPATTERN
Chooseyoursizeusingyour
measurementsandthesizechart.
Cutalongthecorrespondinglines
onyourpattern.Whenyoureach
anyfiddlycurves,takecaretocut
along the correct size lines.
CUTTINGLAYOUTS
Choosethecorrectoneforthe
width of fabric you’re using, the
yourgarmentasthiscanalterthe
measurementsslightly.Usea fabric
tapemeasureasit’llcurvearound
yourbodywellforaccuracy.You
canmeasureonyourownif you
standinfrontofa mirror,but,for
bestresults,aska friendtohelpso
theycancheckthetapemeasureis
sittingintherightplaces.Make
surethetapemeasuresitssnugly
aroundyoubutis notpulledtight.
Takethemeasurementsshownin
the diagram and note them down.
sizeyou’recuttingandthestyleof
garment.Manypatternshavemore
thanoneoption(orview)andeach
one can have a different layout.
CUTTINGOUT
Layyourfabricflatandsmoothit
out.Foldorplacethefabricas
shownonthecuttinglayout.Lay
thepatternpiecesintheorderand
rightsideorwrongsideupas
shown.Checktomakesurethat
thegrainlinesonthepatternare
parallelwiththeselvedgesby
measuring.Pinyourpatternpieces
carefullyinplaceandcutaround
themthroughthefabricusing
a pair of dressmaker’s shears.
TRANSFERRINGMARKINGS
Themarkingsonthepattern
piecesneedtobetransferredto
thefabric.They’rereallyimportant
formatchingupfabricpieceslater
andforpositioningelementssuch
asdartsandpockets.Youcanmark
thesewithchalk,fabricmarkers,
snipsonthefabric,or with small
tacking stitches.
The guide
FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC
HOW TO MEASURE
YOURSELF ACCURATELY
HOW TO USE A PATTERN
PAT TERN MARKINGS
B k Wa S Le G
From the top of your
spine at thebase of
your neck to your
natural waist
H h B t/Ch S
Across theback,
under your armsand
B t above the bust
Aroundthe
fullestpart
of your bust
He G T
Stand against a wall,
barefoot, thenmeasure
from the top of your
head to the floor
Notches:Shownas
trianglesorsmall
lines,theseare
markedonthe
edgesandare
mainlyusedfor
matchingup
pattern pieces.
Arrows:Grainlinearrowsareused
toshowwhichdirectiontopinthe
patternonthefabric.Thegrainline
runs parallel to the fabric edge.
Darts:These
linesarefor
matchingupto
createdarts
withinthe
fabric pieces.
Pleats:Theselinesarematched
uptocreatepleatson the cut
out fabric pieces.
Wa S
Yournatural
waistline, around
the slimmest part
of your waist
H s
Aroundthe fullestand
widest partof your
thighs and bottom