● Auchterarder, Perthshire, Scotland PH3 1NF. 01764 662231. gleneagles.comSingburi
Tucked on a street in
Leytonstone, BYOB, cash only,
run by a fierce and charming
band of women, Singburi has
developed a reputation for some
of the best Thai food in London.
Standout dish
Pad talay: a spicy stir-fry of fish,
squid, prawns and mussels.
593 High Road Leytonstone,
London E11. 020 8281 4801.Les 110 De
Taillevent London
This classic French bistro
remains a stand-out Manhattan-
style dining room. The food’s
good; the wine’s unbeatable.
Standout dish
Curry Dorset monkfish, peas,
smoked ham and potato velouté.
16 Cavendish Square,
London W1. 020 3141 6016.
les-110-taillevent-london.comNo 5 Social
The Jason Atherton restaurant
formerly known as Little Social
has reopened after a stunning
refurb, serving seasonal
British produce by head chef
Kostas Papathanasiou.
Standout dish
Josper-grilled Iberico pork chop
and braised hispi cabbage.
5 Pollen Street, London W1.
020 7870 3730. no5social.com+ Where we’ve been eating this month...Small BitesThe glorious playground is much more than its greens
Fun fact: Gleneagles has its very own mainline station, less than two miles from its imposing
drive. But then it was once a British Rail hotel, so you win some, you lose some. Fortunately,
since 2015 it’s been in the portfolio of Ennismore (hospitality entrepreneurs behind The
Hoxton series), which means this legendary stop on the global golf tour is far more than
mock-baronial bedrooms and wall-to-wall tartan. Instead, it’s the perfect expression of the modern,
full-service destination resort: still focused on its greens, naturally, but busy amplifying myriad other
attractions that should appeal to anyone who wants a few activities sprinkled throughout their stay.
Beyond golf there’s – deep breath – shooting, canoeing, riding, climbing, falconry, cycling, tennis,
off-roading, archery and fishing. And for the merely indolent there’s an Espa spa and health club that,
judging by the continuing investment, will doubtless shortly become the best wellness centre in the
country. Until then, gaze and graze at one of the great dining rooms in the land (the recently restored
Strathearn offers fine Franco-Scottish dining in seriously opulent surroundings) or choose between the
three other restaurants, including the late Andrew Fairlie’s two-Michelin-starred kitchen, and four bars.
But on no account miss out on the breakfast buffet – a term that signally fails to do justice to the most
enticing array of locally sourced and superbly presented dishes GQ has ever encountered. BPGleneagles, ScotlandThe HotelThe PubYou would expect The Specials,
Ed Sheeran and The Zutons to
drink behind the toughest doors
in town, but they’ve all come around to
this tucked-away 16th-century Suffolk
pub, hidden a stone’s throw from the
world-renowned recording studio Decoy.
But their draw to The Ufford Crown isn’t
just convenience. The elegant interior
demonstrates contemporary nuance with
a refreshing sensitivity to the building’s
beautifully ramshackle aesthetic – this
is not the theme park gentrification you
find at most gastropubs a train ride from
London. And then there’s the food. The
work of head chef Alex Dunham, who was
trained by executive chef and cofounder
Will Hardiman (formerly of Coq d’Argent),
is written into local legend.
GQ kicked things off with a runny-yolk,
caramelised onion scotch egg, washed
down with a pint of local staple, Adnams.
A deliciously unctuous pork belly followed
and was served with silky mash and an
artfully balanced homemade Bramley apple
sauce. The menu is regularly revitalised,
with dishes making seasonal appearances.
The same can be said of the wine list: the
“Unusual Choices” selection is a revelation,
with guest bottles as interesting as the pub’s
patrons. The riesling and Picpoul De Pinet
were particular standouts during our visit.
Working for the rat race? This is your
antidote. Just watch whose shoes you’re
spilling your Château Paloumey on to.
Matthew JonesThe UffordCrown, Suffolk
Clink glasses with pop and rock
royalty at Decoy Studios’ local● High Street, Ufford, IP13 6EL.
01394 461030. theuffordcrown.com IllustrationJoe McKendry09-19TasteHotelBook.indd 134 02/07/2019 11:29
122 GQ.CO.UK SEPTEMBER 2019