complex systems after a frustrating stint with the UN High
Commissioner for Refugees, is convinced that for-profit
organisations are the most efficient at solving big problems.
“In Hong Kong, if there’s a business model that works,
somebody’s going to get on it,” he says.
SO WHAT NEEDS TO CHANGE?
There is no single solution that will end fashion’s deleterious
effect on the planet. “Whatever anyone is wearing today,
we took scarce natural resources, water, fossil fuels and
land from the world to make it, and almost all of that goes
to waste,” says Hanna. “We need to break that behaviour,
and we need to start with ourselves. This is where we need
to get fashion lovers to inspire other fashion lovers, and to
drive creativity within the industry.”
The whole panel agrees that the industry needs to
get creative—and that we, as individuals, need to start
contributing to a solution today by buying fewer garments,
buying pre-loved, and by avoiding PVC where possible.
Marketing also needs to be more creative in providing a
wider context for consumers to see sustainable clothing in
use. “We need to spend some time creating brand images
that people feel are relevant,” says The R Collective’s Denise
Ho. Social media in the digital age is one of the drivers of
unsustainable fashion behaviour, encouraging consumers to
buy into trends. The responsibility falls on the shopper to
know their style rather than “this nightmare of keeping up
with social media, of people needing to wear the It item of
the day,” says Sarah. “It’s important to buy the right things
and not have this excess afterwards.”
Indeed, forming new habits is what each of us can start
doing today. According to Hanna, “It’s not about having
all the facts and the knowledge, or being an expert; just
buy what you love, treasure it, care for it, give it a long life,
and when you don’t love it any more, make sure it gets a
second life. It’s not a perfect product from an environmental
perspective; you just have to go with the habit
you think you can change.”
And while technology in the form of
social media may propel poor consumer
behaviour, it’s likely technology will also be
our saviour. “People should be talking about
new materials,” says Christina, citing haptic
technology through which our phones provide
tactile feedback. Think fabric that can react
to the environment and to humidity, she says,
as she tugs at her dress. “Right now, being
pregnant, I’m sweating bullets in this heat, but
if my fabric was smart fabric, the fibre would
open up and allow for more breathability. The
technology is there; we’re just not pushing it,
and we need to.”
As our discussion comes to a close, Edwin
gestures at a jug of orange juice on the table. “I’m
using this to make fabric,” he says, going on to
explain the link between orange juice and the
search for a down substitute. “We’re looking into
using graphene. A graphene ball floats because
it’s lighter than air. You can make geometric
shapes with graphene, and if you light a fire on
one side of the material, there’s no change in
temperature on the other side. The problem is
that a lot of powerful acids are used in making it,
so we’re trying to work out a way to substitute
them with a citric acid like this, like orange
juice.” At this, hushed “wows” are whispered
around the circle.
“How’s that going?” asks Christina.
“Well,” says Edwin, pausing, “it’s coming
along.”SHARON TSANGCHIEF OPERATING OFFICER OF THE R COLLECTIVE, A HONG KONG FASHION BRAND CREATINGUPCYCLEDAPPARELFROMRESCUED EXCESS MATERIAL. SHE WEARS A DRESSBY THE R COLLECTIVE X WEN PAN.