2019-08-01_Hong_Kong_Tatler

LIFE / Wine

120 h o n g k o n g tat l e r. a u g u s t 2 0 1 9

With the term “eco” increasingly on everyone’s lips, the

wine industry fi nds itself in a tricky spot. On the one hand,

winemakers’ reliance on the environment for site-sensitive

product inclines the industry to eco-consciousness. On

the other, unless we all commit to drinking wine from our

backyards, we’re adding a heavy, fragile product to the

world’s vast volume of international cargo.

Responsible practices cost money both in farming (such

as managing vine canopies to reduce fungicide and pesticide

use) and winemaking (for example, allowing wine to

slowly stabilise in the winery versus wasteful fi ltration or

indiscriminate additive use), so the sustainability-minded

drinker should be prepared to pay a bit more per bottle.

But committing to eco-friendly imbibing shouldn’t mean

sacrifi cing on fl avour. Most environmentally committed

producers claim to prize above all creating wines that

refl ect the terroir of their environment. And winemakers

who pay great attention to their process but don’t believe

in artifi cially “shaping” their wine—whether with excessive

new oak or technology—should produce wines that

give those who enjoy them an authentic, almost magical

experience of a place they may never get to see.

Practicality Before Philosophy

Biodynamics/organics/fair trade are labels applied to wines

that privilege an aspect of production while sometimes

glossing over others. For example, the biodynamic and

organic-friendly pesticide copper sulphate causes heavy metal

to accumulate in the soil and, when a tractor is needed for

repeated applications, creates carbon emissions. “Natural”

producers fi xated on “zero sulphite” status oblige their

distributors to use energy-intensive temperature-controlled

transport and storage or risk damaging the product.

For a more holistic view, look for respected “sustainable”

certifi cations. Though some feel these systems are often

watered down, protocols in many areas like California, New

Zealand and South Africa have been widely lauded for their

comprehensiveness.

Also, look for summative metrics like water usage or

carbon emissions per unit, especially those that emphasise

emissions reduction. US giant Jackson Family Wines is

proactive about publishing its emissions fi gures and has

formed a working group with Spain’s Torres family to

measure emissions and pioneer novel technologies. Family

companies like these and Portugal’s Symington Family

Estates often stand out among larger producers for long-

term thinking, usually encompassing sustainability.

Match Grapes to Climates

Seek out logical combos of grape and climate. Grapes

from dry origins, like much of Portugal, Spain, Greece and

southern Italy, for example, are much more appropriate

for similarly hot, dry places than many water-sucking

French grapes (ahem, cabernet sauvignon). When drought-

resistant varieties permit irrigation to be avoided or

reduced, dry places are great for sustainable farming.

Drink Local

Most agree the key metric for environmental impact is

not absolute distance between producer and drinker, but

the mode of transport. Ship freight is more favourable

than air or truck, and sadly most Asian wine moves by the

latter two. Those living close to a wine region, for example

Fangshan near Beijing, Yamanashi near Tokyo or Asoke

Valley near Bangkok, can do their part by supporting their

local producers.

Whenenvironmentalissuesareplaying

on everyone’s mind, what’s an eco-friendly

oenophile to do?

BY SARAH HELLER, MW

Wine

With A

Conscience