DINING LIKE
ROYALTY
SPECIAL FEATUREMichelin-starred R-HAAN wins diners over with
the intricate flavours and detailed preparation of
authentic Thai cuisineNestled on a quiet street in Bangkok’s trendy Thanglor district,
fine-dining Thai restaurant R-HAAN could be mistaken for any
other modern building, until you pass through its glass doors and
enter a world where modernity and tradition co-exist. A funnelled
walkway, plastered with monochrome motifs, marks the grand
entrance to the restaurant. Follow it and an imposing bust of
the Bhirom Bhakdi family patriarch greets you with the simple
dictum, “We are Thai. Chilli dip with an assortment of vegetables
is an essential part of the dinner course.”
This, and a diorama depicting Thai farmers toiling in the
fields, reveal that the restaurant champions Thai cuisine at heart.
In fact, its name R-HAAN, meaning food, illustrates the old Thai
proverb ‘Nai Nam Meece Pla, Nai Na Mee Khao (there are fish
in the water and rice in the fields)’; there is nothing they take
pride in more than showcasing Thailand’s produce in an intricate
preparation of food known as royal Thai cuisine.
Glimpses of old and new converge again as we enter the
restaurant proper. Reminiscent of an eclectically designed home,
red, neon gold, teak and rattan accents run through the bar
and dining room with a view of lush greenery outdoors. In the
stately dining room, each table is accompanied by a side drawer
outfitted for table-side service, while a sommelier stands ready
to recommend wines that go well with the bold flavours of Thai
cuisine, such as the biodynamic 2010 Remelluri Reserva from
Rioja, Spain, or the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah, GranMonte
Vineyard and Winery from the Asoke Valley, Thailand.
Each meal at R-HAAN is a samrub or sharing plate tasting
menu experience that changes according to the summer, winter
and rainy seasons. At least 18 to 19 dishes are served in four
courses—amuse bouche, starters, mains and dessert—in hand-
painted ceramics that are exquisite reproductions of the original
Thai dining ware that was used in the Royal Palace during the
Rattanakosin era. On this occasion, we try their summer Royal
Thai Taste samrub (2912THB).