Top Krathong thong miangOpposite page, from top Grilled
river shrimp served with spicy
fermented pineapple and river
fish dip; Hot and spicy soup
with fried, dried crispy fish and
giant catfish caviar baked with
Baan Dung saltOur authentic Thai cuisine odyssey begins with a morsel of
smoked coconut with homemade pork sausage, ground river fish
mixed with ground roasted rice and aromatic coconut milk, and
bitter orange foam. This tidy parcel of an amuse bouche packs a
smoky, savoury punch and a deepening flavour as you savour the
bite. If the amuse bouche is a study of understated elegance, the
trio of appetisers that comes next is resplendent in comparison,
basked in a riot of colours. First there is the pastel greens and
yellows from a fresh and earthy steamed mix vegetable salad,
where the herbaceous notes from nine local vegetables are
heightened by their marriage with a rich sun-dried ‘pak naam
pho’ river fish and chilli paste coconut cream dressing. Then come
the orange and browns of the Thai-style savoury leaf wraps in
crispy pastry shells known as krathong thong miang, a traditional
Thai snack that is decorated with a melange of ingredients such
as fresh ginger, shallots, cubed lime, grated coconut, salted
peanuts and dried shrimp. Consumed in one ravenous bite,
the crunchy sweet-savoury snack hits the spot. A swathe of
rich yellow envelopes the last item on the plate, the spicy crab
salad with Thai rice flour vermicelli and scrambled egg. A riff on
the classic Thai flour vermicelli dessert, the dish combines the
springy texture of noodles made with rice and arrowroot flour,
with silky strands of crab finally topped off by an oozy
egg delight.
But the highlight of the evening must be the spread of
mains accompanied by steamed new crop hom mali rice from
Yasothorn, and steamed organic brown rice comprising riceberry,
hom nin rice, sangyod rice, hill tribe brown rice and Chitralada
Palace rice. Our favourite is the grilled river shrimp served with
spicy fermented pineapple and river fish dip. The fresh, succulent
giant prawns go amazingly well with the piquant chilli sauce and
slices of jambu fruit that help cut through the spice.