Wine & Dine – August 2019

(Greg DeLong) #1
077

Smoke & Mirrors has been building up quite
the reputation as a cocktail bar inclined towards
laboratory-like experimentation. In the hands of its
new head bartender Jorge Conde, that reputation is
further advanced: the revamped menu, Illusion of
Flavours, is a culmination of Conde’s love for art,
cocktail savvy and curious spirit.
The cocktails are loosely based on classic
flavours, but reimagined using distillation,
preservation and fermentation techniques. The
bigger goal is to challenge preconceptions and
draw intrigue; the minimalist presentation is also
deliberate to focus attention squarely on each drink’s
complex flavour profile.
Take Peel & See ($28). Inspired by Andy Warhol’s
iconic cover for The Velvet Underground, Conde


fat-washed gin with banana, miso and olive oil, and
topped that with quinine aperitif for what comes
across as a shimmery dirty martini with sultry,
rounded umami notes and the faintest suggestion of
ripe bananas. Dali’s Self Portrait ($28) is as surreal
as it promises—“smells like a lemon tree but tastes
like a Manhattan,” as Conde puts it. Fermented agave,
dehydrated jackfruit, pepper-infused tequila make
Jack of the Jungle ($25) incredibly smashable—fruity,
smoky and citrusy all at once. It’s among several
pre-batched cocktails that are aged via a solera-like
system. Be nice, and Conde might just let you have
sips of a few batches to appreciate how the cocktail’s
nuances have developed over time.
#06-01, National Gallery Singapore,
1 St Andrew’s Road. Tel: 9380 6313

Of art and illusions


http://www.wnd.sg
Free download pdf