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http://www.wnd.sgYANGON
The erstwhile British capital of the country, Yangon is a flashback to what the
major cities in Asia were like in 1970s. Broad roads minus the traffic snarls,
street stalls and old cars dot the city. The golden Shwedagon Pagoda pierces the
skyline, and can be viewed from afar, being built strategically on a hilltop.
The pagoda is actually a complex of temples, with one big central temple
and innumerable smaller ones around it. Visit in the evening when the floor is
not so hot, as you will have to walk around barefoot in the temple compound.
Sunset is also a lovely time to visit the temple, not only because of the changing
hues of the gilded stupa but also to witness groups of monks chanting and
praying at the end of the day. Sit awhile, put your camera down, close your eyes
and allow their rhythmic chants to permeate your very being. You will leave
feeling lighter, a spiritual experience—even if you are not a believer.
There is much more to Yangon than the dusty (albeit trash-free) roads
and pagodas. Unknown to many, it also houses the forgotten tomb of the last
Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar II. Exiled in Rangoon, he was hurriedly
buried in an unmarked grave in 1862 by the British who did not want to glorify
the emperor. In 1876, soon after his death, Queen Victoria proclaimed herself
the Empress of India. In fact, it was only in 1991, more than a hundred years
after his death, that his body was discovered by a worker digging a drain. He
now lies buried in a small dargah at the very spot, unvisited and forgotten,
ironically as was intended. A poet at heart, the last emperor of one of the
largest kingdoms in the world wrote these lines before he died -Umr-e-daraaz se maang ke laye the char din, Do aarzu mein guzar gaye, do
intezaar mein;
Hai kitna badnaseeb Zafar dafn ke liye, Do gaz zameen bhi na mili koo-e-yaar
mein.(From the lord of life, I asked for and got a life of four days; Two passed by
while pining, and two while waiting;
How unlucky is Zafar.. That even for his burial, Mere two yards of land were
not to be had, In the land (of the) beloved.)Cut to today, and Yangon has a flourishing dining scene, perhaps the
most exciting in the country. A great place to try out various cuisines from
across the country, Rangoon Tea House serves delicious Burmese food in chic
surroundings and even has a hip cocktail bar. It is a great place to try ohn no
khao swè, a Burmese speciality with wheat noodles and chicken in a coconut
milk broth. The dish is popular in India and elsewhere, as khao suey, though the
authentic version tastes nothing like its global cousins which were anglicised in
erstwhile Calcutta.
For street-style local food, visit Feel Myanmar Food, a chain with outlets
across the city. It serves delicious no-frills fare for a quick meal. House of
Memories is a Burmese restaurant set inside General Aung San’s erstwhile
office. The bungalow is where the famed general worked every day, and where
the Indian patriot Subhash Chandra Bose was hidden, when he fled from India.
You can even walk into the room which used to be his office, preserved as is
with his desk and all other accessories in place.
For something more contemporary, Sharky’s offers fresh salads, pizzas and
a range of western dishes. A farm-to-table cafe the ingredients are fresh and
they even retail freshly baked bread and other bottled gourmet foods to take
back home.