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fashion history
THE DNA
Rumour has it that British brands Burberry
and Aquascutum are still at odds over who
invented the trench. One thing’s for certain:
We can thank Thomas Burberry for creating
the water-repellent fabric known as gabar-
dine that kept British troops dry during the
First World War. His mark is unmistakable:
double-breasted coats, exaggerated cuffs
and flaps and storm patches on the front and
back—each of these elements functioned to
protect from the rain, wind and cold.GOING MAINSTREAM
Post-war, the utilitarian trench became a cov-
eted wardrobe staple after stars like Greta
Garbo, Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Loren
were seen wearing it in films (in the romantic
dramas A Woman of Affairs and Breakfast
at Tiffany’s and the Second World War
drama The Key, respectively). And in the
’60s, Yves Saint Laurent made it a trademark
of Parisian style when he designed a black-
patent version for Catherine Deneuve in the
French drama Belle de Jour. Since then, the
trench coat has become an essential part of
a woman’s wardrobe, worn by everyone
from Queen Elizabeth to Kate Moss.The fabled origin story
of the trench coat.
By SOPHIE ST-LAURENTOver
the Top
STYLE TIP
Instead of buckling
your belt the traditional
way, opt for a ca-
sual knot to cinch your
waist. And every once
in a while, trade out
the original belt for one
in a contrasting colour,
leather or grosgrain.
When in doubt, roll up
the sleeves.THE NEW TRENCH
A century later, the timeless piece is still reinventing itself. We saw it everywhere on the fall runways: in leopard print at Blumarine, in leather
at Tod’s and in transparent organza at Simone Rocha. But in 2019, the definitive version belongs (again!) to Burberry, whose beige canvas is
enhanced for its fall/winter collection by a chain edging that gives it a rocker-chic look.BURBERRYBLUMARINETOD’SSIMONE^ ROCHA