DINA LITOVSKY US
”Big-wave surfing, one of the most
dangerous sports in the world, has
traditionally been dominated by
men. To focus on the amazing female
athletes who’ve been surfing for years
without getting the same recognition
was an inspiring experience. On my first
day at Mavericks [Beach], California, as
I was watching many surfers competing
for 40-foot [12-metre] waves, I heard
observers around me referring to
all of them as ‘he’. It struck me right
away that no-one even considered
that women could be among them.”