Creative Machine Embroidery – July 2019

(Joyce) #1
around the edge of the piece before
embroidering. This ensures that you
are able to place the embroidery
correctly aligned with the garment and
know in advance if the design won’t
fit. Use a full-scale printed template
that combines the embroidery design
layout for each garment piece to
further ensure there are no unfortunate
surprises during placement.

CHOOSING STABILIZER
The geometric Bohemian Bouquet
embroidery designs used for the
featured sample are mostly light
density, much like hand embroidery.
This makes them ideal for garments,
since they are able to curve with the
body. The weave structure of the
washable linen blend fabric used for
the featured sample is fairly soft and
has some give to it; it benefits from
the use of a cut-away stabilizer to keep
the embroidery looking good through
wearing and washing. Two layers of a
relatively soft cut-away stabilizer were
used in the hoop, with a layer of tear-
away underneath. It is often preferable
to use two layers of a lightweight cut-
away rather than one layer of a heavier
cut-away for a fashion garment, since
the two layers can be graded with
pinking shears for less stabilizer show-
through during wear.

COLOR SELECTION
Choosing thread colors is always
both fun and challenging for the
embroiderer, as there are so many

potential choices. When in doubt, it's
always useful to consult a color wheel.
If you want a design to really "pop,"
complementary colors (colors on
opposite sides of the color wheel) such
as those used for the featured sample,
have the most dramatic impact. Since
the complementary color for blue
is orange and the complementary
color for green is red, a blue-green
color such as this ocean-colored linen
naturally has the greatest contrast with
oranges and reds.

Using a more yellow-toned green
rather than a bluish green for the
leaf motifs further emphasizes the
designs and allows them to stand
out from the background. This
might not be as desirable in a small-
scale garment, but the large canvas
created by the overalls can carry
bolder designs. The high-contrast
colors allow the embroidery motifs
to avoid being lost in the scale of the
long garment.

FINISHING
Once the embroidery is finished,
the overalls can be cut and sewn as
usual. For this version of the Burnside
Bibs, a front “belt” style overlay was
omitted from the garment in order to
allow more room for the embroidery.
This did not fundamentally affect
the performance or structure of the
garment, so it was an easy alteration
to make. Cut and sew the garment
following the pattern instructions.

The large canvas created by the


overalls can carry bolder designs.


The high contrast colors allow the


embroidery motifs to avoid being lost


in the scale of the long garment.


DESIGNS
Bohemian Bouquets, Anita Goodesign:
anitagoodesign.com

SOURCES
Robert Kaufman provided the Brussels
Washer washable linen blend fabric in Ocean:
robertkaufman.com.
Sew House Seven provided the Burnside Bibs
pattern: sewhouse7.com.
Sulky of America provided the premium rayon
thread, Soft ‘n’ Sheer stabilizer & Tear-Easy
stabilizer: sulky.com.
SVP Worldwide provided the Premiere+ 2
embroidery software: svpworldwide.com.

CMEMAG.COM 29

26-29_CME_F19_Bohemian Bibs.indd 2926-29_CME_F19_Bohemian Bibs.indd 29 7/8/19 1:51 PM7/8/19 1:51 PM

around the edge of the piece before
embroidering. This ensures that you
are able to place the embroidery
correctly aligned with the garment and
know in advance if the design won’t
fit. Use a full-scale printed template
that combines the embroidery design
layout for each garment piece to
further ensure there are no unfortunate
surprises during placement.


CHOOSING STABILIZER
The geometric Bohemian Bouquet
embroidery designs used for the
featured sample are mostly light
density, much like hand embroidery.
This makes them ideal for garments,
since they are able to curve with the
body. The weave structure of the
washable linen blend fabric used for
the featured sample is fairly soft and
has some give to it; it benefits from
the use of a cut-away stabilizer to keep
the embroidery looking good through
wearing and washing. Two layers of a
relatively soft cut-away stabilizer were
used in the hoop, with a layer of tear-
away underneath. It is often preferable
to use two layers of a lightweight cut-
away rather than one layer of a heavier
cut-away for a fashion garment, since
the two layers can be graded with
pinking shears for less stabilizer show-
through during wear.


COLOR SELECTION
Choosing thread colors is always
both fun and challenging for the
embroiderer, as there are so many


potential choices. When in doubt, it's
always useful to consult a color wheel.
If you want a design to really "pop,"
complementary colors (colors on
opposite sides of the color wheel) such
as those used for the featured sample,
have the most dramatic impact. Since
the complementary color for blue
is orange and the complementary
color for green is red, a blue-green
color such as this ocean-colored linen
naturally has the greatest contrast with
oranges and reds.

Using a more yellow-toned green
rather than a bluish green for the
leaf motifs further emphasizes the
designs and allows them to stand
out from the background. This
might not be as desirable in a small-
scale garment, but the large canvas
created by the overalls can carry
bolder designs. The high-contrast
colors allow the embroidery motifs
to avoid being lost in the scale of the
long garment.

FINISHING
Once the embroidery is finished,
the overalls can be cut and sewn as
usual. For this version of the Burnside
Bibs, a front “belt” style overlay was
omitted from the garment in order to
allow more room for the embroidery.
This did not fundamentally affect
the performance or structure of the
garment, so it was an easy alteration
to make. Cut and sew the garment
following the pattern instructions.

The large canvas created by the


overalls can carry bolder designs.


The high contrast colors allow the


embroidery motifs to avoid being lost


in the scale of the long garment.


DESIGNS
Bohemian Bouquets, Anita Goodesign:
anitagoodesign.com

SOURCES
Robert Kaufman provided the Brussels
Washer washable linen blend fabric in Ocean:
robertkaufman.com.
Sew House Seven provided the Burnside Bibs
pattern: sewhouse7.com.
Sulky of America provided the premium rayon
thread, Soft ‘n’ Sheer stabilizer & Tear-Easy
stabilizer: sulky.com.
SVP Worldwide provided the Premiere+ 2
embroidery software: svpworldwide.com.

CMEMAG.COM 29
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