National Geographic USA – June 2019

(Nora) #1
She says she fell in love with dolphins in the

late 1980s when she read a book by John Lilly,


the American neuroscientist who broke open our


understanding of the animals’ intelligence. She


has spent 30 years training marine mammals to


do tricks. But along the way she’s grown heartsick


from forcing highly intelligent, social creatures


to live isolated, barren lives in small tanks.


“I would compare the dolphin situation with

making a physicist sweep the street,” she says.


“When they’re not engaged in performance


or training, they just hang in the water facing


down. It’s the deepest depression.”


What people don’t know about many aquar-

ium shows in Russia, Azovtseva says, is that the


animals often die soon after being put in cap-


tivity, especially those in traveling shows. And


Azovtseva— making clear she’s referring to the


industry at large in Russia and not the Moskvar-


ium—says she knows many aquariums quietly


and illegally replace their animals with new ones.


It’s been illegal to catch Black Sea dolphins in

the wild for entertainment purposes since 2003,


but according to Azovtseva, aquarium owners


who want to increase their dolphin numbers


quickly and cheaply buy dolphins poached


there. Because these dolphins are acquired ille-


gally, they’re missing the microchips that captive


cetaceans in Russia are usually tagged with as a


form of required identification.


Some aquariums get around that, she says,

by cutting out dead dolphins’ microchips and


implanting them into replacement dolphins.


“People are people,” Azovtseva says. “Once

they see an opportunity, they exploit.” She says


she can’t go on doing her work in the industry


and that she’s decided to speak out because she


wants people to know the truth about the origins


and treatment of many of the marine mammals


they love watching. We exchange a look—we


both know what her words likely mean for her


livelihood.


“I don’t care if I’m fired,” she says defiantly.

“When a person has nothing to lose, she becomes


really brave.”


I


’M SITTING on the edge of an infinity
pool on the hilly Thai side of Thai-
land’s border with Myanmar, at a
resort where rooms average more than
a thousand dollars a night.
Out past the pool, elephants roam

in a lush valley. Sitting next to me is 20-year-old


In a forest outside
Moscow, Stepan,
a 26-year-old brown
bear and social media
star, sits between an
angel-wing-clad model
and his owner, Svetlana
Panteleenko. Moscow-
based photographers
pay $760 each to cap-
ture the scene for
their Instagram feeds.

74 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

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