Patchwork & Quilting UK – August 2019

TECHNIQUE // in a nutshell

86 British Patchwork & Quilting AUGUST 2019

IN A NUTSHELL

PREPARATION OF FABRICSŏ

It is advisable to use 100% cotton fabric if the

finished item is to be laundered. Ideally fabrics

should be washed and pressed before using

as this allows for shrinkage and

colourfastness. To check a fabric is colourfast,

dampen and lay it on top of a white cotton

fabric and press. Check for any dye

transferred to the white fabric.bIf the colour

bleeds when the fabric is washed, rinse

repeatedly until water runs clear and, if

necessary, soak in a solution of 3 parts water

to 1 part vinegar.

TEMPLATE MAKINGŏ

These need to be accurately made from either

rigid plastic or cardboard. The templates given

on thebPattern Sheetbare usually full sized. A

seam allowance of ¼" is used in all projects

unless otherwise stated. Refer to the Pattern

Sheet for more information.

PRESSINGŏ

When piecing fabrics it is essential to press

each seam as it is stitched. Firstly, press the

seam flat on the wrong side before opening

the pieces, to set the stitches. Then, on right

side of the fabric, press both seams towards

the darker fabric using tip of the iron and

then press again on the wrong side. Seams

can also be pressed open as this helps to

distribute the bulk of fabric created when

lots of seams meet at one point. Press rather

than iron, preferably without steam. Spray

starch can also be used.b

ROTARY CUTTINGŏ

Squares, rectangles and other shapes can be

quickly cut from strips of fabric using a rotary

cutter, a self-healing cutting mat and a

special cutting ruler. A rotary cutter has a

very sharp round blade which must be

shielded at all times when not in use.

Always cut away from the body and store

cutter out of the reach of children. Cutting

rulers come in a variety of sizes and are

usually marked in inches with^1 ⁄ 8 " increments.

To straighten the edge of the fabric prior to

cutting strips, fold in half with selvedges

together and place on cutting mat. Place

ruler on the fabric, at right angles to the fold

and cut the fabric to give a straight edge.

Place the cut edge of fabric to the left of the

cutting board, if right handed (to the right, if

left handed) then using the ruler, measure

width of strip to be cut. Hold ruler in place

and cut along edge of the ruler. Several

layers of fabric can be cut at one time.bStrips

can then be sub cut into squares, rectangles,

triangles and other shapes.

APPLIQUÉŏ

The technique of applying one or more fabrics to a background

with hand or machine stitching. Always use a thread to match the

colour of the shape to be appliquéd.b

Hand appliquéL·

Also known as needleturn appliqué.bThe appliqué pattern can be

traced onto the background fabric or an overlay method can be

used. Draw around appliqué shape and cut out, adding an approx.

¼" seam allowance. Pin shape in place on background fabric and

slip stitch down, turning under seam allowance with your needle as

you go.

Freezer paper appliquéL·

Cut freezer paper to exact size of design and iron shiny side of

paper to wrong side of fabric. Cut out addingbapprox. ¼" seam

allowance. Press seam allowance over the freezer paper to give a

smooth edge. Pin in place on the background fabric and slip stitch

almost all of the way round the shape, leaving a small gap. Remove

the paper and complete stitching.b

Machine appliquéL·

Apply fusible web to back of appliqué fabric before cutting out each

drawn shape accurately, without a seam allowance. Fuse into

position and use a zigzag, satin or buttonhole stitch to attach.b

REVERSE APPLIQUEŏ

This is the ‘opposite’ of appliqué, where a layer or layers of fabric

are removed to reveal the design.b

By hand

Cut two pieces of fabric and draw design on right side of top fabric.

Pin the other fabric beneath top fabric, right side up,bdia. 9a. Tack

layers together approx. ½" outside drawn design,bdia 9b. Use a

small, sharp pair of scissors to cut ¼" within marked line. Clip curves

and corners as necessary. Using a thread to match top layer, use

tip of your needle to turn under the top fabric to the drawn line of

the design,bdia. 1c. Slip stitch to bottom layer. Turn work over and

trim away excess fabric,bdia. 1d.b

By machine

Mark the design on wrong side of bottom layer of fabric. Sandwich

fabrics as for hand reverse appliqué. Use a straight stitch and

working from back of fabric, stitch exactly along line of the design.

From the right side of fabric sandwich, use a sharp pair of scissors

to cut as close as possible to the inside of stitched line thus

removing the top layer to reveal the design. This cut edge can then

be covered with a line of satin stitching.

RS RS

RS WS

Reverse Appliqué

dia. 1a dia. 1b

dia. 1c dia. 1d