OVERLAND JOURNAL FALL 201939
Clockwisefromtop left:Ruinsseemto be everywherein Peru,even
in downtownLima(HuacaPucllana).The Pisacruinsare in a more
pastoralsetting nearCusco.Protectedtombs at Chauchillanear
Nazcaoffera glimpseof sacredtraditions.The preciseIncanstone-
workat Qorikanchain Cuscois impressivein stature.Signsof looted
graveswerepresentnearCahuachi,a significantceremonial center
in Nazca. Huacachina, a true oasis in the desert.
Tower, and Ben’sparents marveled at theancient geoglyphs.Instead,I
foundmyeyesdriftingtothenarrowstrandofblacktarmac,reachingout
acrossthedustyplains.
I rememberedstandinginthisveryspotyearsbefore.Wehadeagerly
chattedabouthowonedaywecoulddrivethelengthofthePanAmerican
Highway.Backthen,wespokeofit asa distant,unachievabledream.Now
wewerebackandovertwoyearsintodoingexactlythat.Well,I sayexactly
that.It wasn’texactlythat.
Wehadn’tactuallyspentmuchofourtravelsfollowingthePanAmeri-
canHighway.Wehadbeenmoreinclinedtoheadinlandandfollowthose
windingmountainroads.Itfeltfittingthatwhenwedidrejointhemain
highway,it wassomewherethatevokedsuchpowerfulmemories.
Ourtourguestsweren’t hereto marvelatsealedhighways.Wehave
thoseat homein abundance.Whatwedon’thavein NewZealandaremany
ancientruins.Wehadheardmentionofa templeat Cahuachilocatednear-
by.Travelingdustyroadstofindthislonesomespotprovedtobeaneven
moreinterestingtripthana flightovertheNazcaLines.Excavationand
preservationworkarestillinprogresshere.ThismeansCahuachidoesn’t
havethepolishandtouristicfeelofsomeofthemorefrequentedlocations.
Sadly,wecouldalsoseea lotmore“excavation”hadbeengoingonalongthe
roadsideleadingtothetemplecomplex.Thesandwaslittered with skulls,
bones, and shards of pottery left over from looted graves.