F
ARTHER EAST IN the Columbia River Gorge, one of the
consequences of the river’s power-generating capabilities
lies hidden below the waterline. For centuries and possi-
bly millennia, Celilo Falls was the epicenter of the Pacific
Northwest’s salmon culture. Native Americans gathered
at the falls each spring to catch a year’s supply of salmon and to
trade goods. Lewis and Clark landed there on October 22, 1805,
noting it as “the great mart” of the West. Also called Wyam,
which means “the sound of water upon the rocks,” these falls
haven’t been heard since March 10, 1957, when The Dalles Dam
closed its gates for the first time and flooded one of the most
sacred of all fishing sites in North America.
Historically, Native American communities from up and
down the river traveled to Celilo each spring to catch salmon
in dip nets from wooden platforms built precariously over the
falls. The fishing couldn’t begin, however, until the salmon had
been shown the proper respect. Variations of the First Salmon
ceremony still take place throughout salmon country. They differ
slightly from tribe to tribe, but the general outline is the same:
The first salmon of the year is ritualistically shared with everyone
in the community, and its skeleton cleaned and returned to the
river and floated downstream. In this way, the ambassador from
the salmon tribe can return to its underwater kin and tell of the
respect it received from the human beings living upstream, so
that more of its kind will ascend and nourish the people.
Once the First Salmon ceremony has been performed—with
its rituals of drumming, dancing, fasting, and feasting, which
might take place over several days—the fishing season can then
begin in earnest. Before the dam-building era, the fishing clo-
sures built into such rites had the effect of allowing more salmon
to reach their upstream spawning grounds, ensuring future runs
for harvest. “Spiritual game management,” it’s been called.
Today, the powwow that accompanies the Celilo First Salmon
ceremony, usually held in mid-April at the village longhouse, is
open to the public, with a salmon picnic to follow. Traditional
dip netting can still be seen on the Columbia and its tributaries.
These fishing sites represent some of the longest continuously
inhabited places in the Americas and, though the river is no lon-
ger the fishery it once was, it’s still the heart of salmon country.
Before leaving the gorge, I stop by the Bridge of the Gods, in
Cascade Locks, where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses the Columbia
River, to try one last bite of smoked chinook sold from the back
of a tribal member’s pickup. In the shadow of this modern can-
tilever bridge named for an ancient Native American myth, I
savor the richness of wild salmon, a taste both old and new—and
unlike any other fish from the sea. As a tribal elder once told me,
“We are not wealthy, but we always have salmon.”Seattle-basedLANGDONCOOK( @langdoncook) is the author of
Upstream: Searching for Wild Salmon, From River to Table.
Photographer and Alaska commercial fishermanCOREYARNOLD
( @arni_coraldo) is based in Portland.Double Mountain Brewery
Creating notable craft
brews, including an oatmeal
stout and a Brut IPA, this
Hood River brewery and
taproom is also known for
its tasty pizza. The venue
hosts live music acts
regularly.doublemountain
brewery.comLark
In the Capitol Hill neigh-
borhood, this top Seattle
restaurant helmed by
chef John Sundstrom
celebrates Pacific North-
west ingredients, from
oysters and wild salmon
to sunchokes and black
trumpet mushrooms.
larkseattle.comGO WITH NAT GEO
Nat Geo Expeditions’
“Columbia and Snake Rivers
Voyage” is a seven-day
cruise aboard the new
National Geographic Quest,
retracing the path of Lewis
and Clark’s trailblazing
expedition through the
Pacific Northwest. Guests
journey through the Colum-
bia River Gorge, go on hik-
ing and biking excursions,
and sample local food and
wine.natgeoexpeditions
.com/explore;888-966-8687WHAT TO KNOW
Columbia spring chinook
season is typically April
and May. Check the
Washington Department
of Fish and Wildlife and the
Oregon Department of Fish
and Wildlife for regulations.WHERE TO STAY
Hood River Hotel
Recently renovated but
retaining vintage details,
this 41-room lodging in
the Columbia River
Gorge is on the National
Register of Historic
Places. Ground-level
rooms are dog-friendly.
hoodriverhotel.comInn at the Market
Located on-site at Pike
Place Market, this 76-room
boutique hotel has
expansive views of the
Seattle waterfront from
some rooms and a rooftop
deck for sunset cocktails.
innatthemarket.comWHERE TO DINE
Celilo Restaurant & Bar
Locally and sustainably
sourced fish, meats, and
produce star at Celilo, in
Hood River. An A-list cellar
highlights Oregon wine.
celilorestaurant.com.Travel Wise: Salmon Country
(^50) ee
50 km
APRIL/MAY 2019 111
NG MAPS, MAP DATA: © OPENSTREETMAP CONTRIBUTORS, AVAILABLE UNDER OPEN DATABASE LICENSE: OPENSTREETMAP.ORG/COPYRIGHT
F
ARTHER EAST IN the Columbia River Gorge, one of the
consequences of the river’s power-generating capabilities
lies hidden below the waterline. For centuries and possi-
bly millennia, Celilo Falls was the epicenter of the Pacific
Northwest’s salmon culture. Native Americans gathered
at the falls each spring to catch a year’s supply of salmon and to
trade goods. Lewis and Clark landed there on October 22, 1805,
noting it as “the great mart” of the West. Also called Wyam,
which means “the sound of water upon the rocks,” these falls
haven’t been heard since March 10, 1957, when The Dalles Dam
closed its gates for the first time and flooded one of the most
sacred of all fishing sites in North America.
Historically, Native American communities from up and
down the river traveled to Celilo each spring to catch salmon
in dip nets from wooden platforms built precariously over the
falls. The fishing couldn’t begin, however, until the salmon had
been shown the proper respect. Variations of the First Salmon
ceremony still take place throughout salmon country. They differ
slightly from tribe to tribe, but the general outline is the same:
The first salmon of the year is ritualistically shared with everyone
in the community, and its skeleton cleaned and returned to the
river and floated downstream. In this way, the ambassador from
the salmon tribe can return to its underwater kin and tell of the
respect it received from the human beings living upstream, so
that more of its kind will ascend and nourish the people.
Once the First Salmon ceremony has been performed—with
its rituals of drumming, dancing, fasting, and feasting, which
might take place over several days—the fishing season can then
begin in earnest. Before the dam-building era, the fishing clo-
sures built into such rites had the effect of allowing more salmon
to reach their upstream spawning grounds, ensuring future runs
for harvest. “Spiritual game management,” it’s been called.
Today, the powwow that accompanies the Celilo First Salmon
ceremony, usually held in mid-April at the village longhouse, is
open to the public, with a salmon picnic to follow. Traditional
dip netting can still be seen on the Columbia and its tributaries.
These fishing sites represent some of the longest continuously
inhabited places in the Americas and, though the river is no lon-
ger the fishery it once was, it’s still the heart of salmon country.
Before leaving the gorge, I stop by the Bridge of the Gods, in
Cascade Locks, where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses the Columbia
River, to try one last bite of smoked chinook sold from the back
of a tribal member’s pickup. In the shadow of this modern can-
tilever bridge named for an ancient Native American myth, I
savor the richness of wild salmon, a taste both old and new—and
unlike any other fish from the sea. As a tribal elder once told me,
“We are not wealthy, but we always have salmon.”
Seattle-basedLANGDONCOOK( @langdoncook) is the author of
Upstream: Searching for Wild Salmon, From River to Table.
Photographer and Alaska commercial fishermanCOREYARNOLD
( @arni_coraldo) is based in Portland.
Double Mountain Brewery
Creating notable craft
brews, including an oatmeal
stout and a Brut IPA, this
Hood River brewery and
taproom is also known for
its tasty pizza. The venue
hosts live music acts
regularly.doublemountain
brewery.com
Lark
In the Capitol Hill neigh-
borhood, this top Seattle
restaurant helmed by
chef John Sundstrom
celebrates Pacific North-
west ingredients, from
oysters and wild salmon
to sunchokes and black
trumpet mushrooms.
larkseattle.com
GO WITH NAT GEO
Nat Geo Expeditions’
“Columbia and Snake Rivers
Voyage” is a seven-day
cruise aboard the new
National Geographic Quest,
retracing the path of Lewis
and Clark’s trailblazing
expedition through the
Pacific Northwest. Guests
journey through the Colum-
bia River Gorge, go on hik-
ing and biking excursions,
and sample local food and
wine.natgeoexpeditions
.com/explore;888-966-8687
WHAT TO KNOW
Columbia spring chinook
season is typically April
and May. Check the
Washington Department
of Fish and Wildlife and the
Oregon Department of Fish
and Wildlife for regulations.
WHERE TO STAY
Hood River Hotel
Recently renovated but
retaining vintage details,
this 41-room lodging in
the Columbia River
Gorge is on the National
Register of Historic
Places. Ground-level
rooms are dog-friendly.
hoodriverhotel.com
Inn at the Market
Located on-site at Pike
Place Market, this 76-room
boutique hotel has
expansive views of the
Seattle waterfront from
some rooms and a rooftop
deck for sunset cocktails.
innatthemarket.com
WHERE TO DINE
Celilo Restaurant & Bar
Locally and sustainably
sourced fish, meats, and
produce star at Celilo, in
Hood River. An A-list cellar
highlights Oregon wine.
celilorestaurant.com.
Travel Wise: Salmon Country
(^50) ee
50 km
APRIL/MAY 2019 111
NG MAPS, MAP DATA: © OPENSTREETMAP CONTRIBUTORS, AVAILABLE UNDER OPEN DATABASE LICENSE: OPENSTREETMAP.ORG/COPYRIGHT