beginning of history an object of desire. Of the many invaders,
the major influence is Greek; archaeological sites dotting the
map show the extent of that colonization in what was known as
Magna Graecia. Greek words remain in local dialects.
The landscape seems to underscore Calabria’s tumultuous
history. The last upheavals of the Apennines striate the region,
dropping straight into the sea and creating a sensation of geog-
raphy in motion.
We reach Capovaticano Resort, just outside Tropea, as the
sun drops down beside Stromboli, about 30 miles offshore.
The volcanic island juts up from the water like a big brown fist.Streaks of rose gold exactly match my Aperol spritz, and sunset
tessellates a path all the way to shore. The supercontemporary
hotel sits right on lawns bordering the beach. Our sleek mini-
malist room and wraparound balcony don’t even try to compete
with the view. Palms reflected in the long pool curving along
the beach look like mirages. Maybe it’s all a mirage and I’m only
imagining arriving at such a place.WE ARE HERE IN CALABRIA FOR EIGHT DAYS. May the trip
not peak on the first morning! Tropea rises dramatically out of
the rocks 200 feet above a beach lapped by clear-to-the-bottomAPRIL/MAY 2019 75
BILL PHELPSbeginning of history an object of desire. Of the many invaders,
the major influence is Greek; archaeological sites dotting the
map show the extent of that colonization in what was known as
Magna Graecia. Greek words remain in local dialects.
The landscape seems to underscore Calabria’s tumultuous
history. The last upheavals of the Apennines striate the region,
dropping straight into the sea and creating a sensation of geog-
raphy in motion.
We reach Capovaticano Resort, just outside Tropea, as the
sun drops down beside Stromboli, about 30 miles offshore.
The volcanic island juts up from the water like a big brown fist.Streaks of rose gold exactly match my Aperol spritz, and sunset
tessellates a path all the way to shore. The supercontemporary
hotel sits right on lawns bordering the beach. Our sleek mini-
malist room and wraparound balcony don’t even try to compete
with the view. Palms reflected in the long pool curving along
the beach look like mirages. Maybe it’s all a mirage and I’m only
imagining arriving at such a place.WE ARE HERE IN CALABRIA FOR EIGHT DAYS. May the trip
not peak on the first morning! Tropea rises dramatically out of
the rocks 200 feet above a beach lapped by clear-to-the-bottomAPRIL/MAY 2019 75
BILL PHELPS