National Geographic Traveler USA - 04.2019 - 05.2019

gleaming. And why not—the police uniforms were designed by Valentino. Picturesque Chianalèa we explore quickly. Time for an aperitivo at a busy wine bar, then dinner overlooking the sea. Swordfish, of course, here in swordfish central. We fall into con- versation with a young couple on holiday from Modena. By the end of the evening, we’ve more or less dined together. Walking back through the stony little village late at night, it’s quiet and dark. Everyone sleeping. Possibly dreaming watery dreams. On our last day, we drive to Reggio Calabria to visit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, one of the best in Italy. First, a walk on the fabulous seaside promenade along Lungomare Falcomatà. Reggio Calabria, destroyed in an earthquake in 1908, then heavily bombed by the Allies in World War II, still retains the atmosphere of a tropical, laid-back port with its twisted banyan and blooming jacaranda trees. We stop into Sottozero Cremeria, 125 flavors of gelato and counting. An elderly man wanders among the tables, chatting to customers. When he comes to ours, we meet Tito, the owner, who started making gelato in 1974. He signals the waiter to bring over a coupe of almond gelato between chocolate wafers. We’ve already tried the hazelnut, coffee, and lemon. He gives us a jar of annona di Reggio sauce. “A special fruit that only grows here,” he claims. “Try it.” These generous gifts! All over Calabria, we’ve been given sauces, pastas, jams, honey. Inside the handsome 1932 museum: the entire history of Calabria in objects, from the Neolithic to the Bronze Age and onward. Impossible to describe the treasures. “Astonishing” is hardly adequate when facing a dolium, a six-foot-high olive oil storage jar from 1150 B.C. Or a 300 B.C. child’s tomb in the shape of a sandaled foot. And all the finds from the Greek sites— terra-cotta ex-votos, written tablets, roof tiles and drains, a gold crown, as well as magnificent sculptural groups. A Hellenistic grave of a young woman yielded delicate ram’s-head earrings set with gems, a scarab ring, and, inside her mouth, a gold coin, perhaps to pay for her passage to another world, but unspent. We wander, dazzled. We arrive at the bronze Riace Warriors. Two glorious nude men, 6’6” and 6’5” in height, fixed on seis- mic bases in a controlled atmosphere. Found in 1972 at a depth of only 23 to 26 feet of water, just off Riace in the Ionian Sea, they might have been jettisoned from a Greek ship in distress. Warrior A and Warrior B are their pedestrian names. No one really knows their origins. Fifth century B.C.? Some scholars argue that they’re later. But here they are. They show their teeth. Silver, along with silver eyelashes and ivory irises, copper mouths and nipples. Their buttocks are taut, their beards groomed, their poses power- ful.Un altro mondo,another world, I was told. These mysterious visitors from the beginning symbolize Calabria. Sensuous and aloof. Ancient. Fierce and proud.

FRANCESMAYES’s ( @francesmayes) See You in the Piazza: New Places to Discover in Italy was published in March by Crown. Her most recent novel is Women in Sunlight.

Gambero Rosso Via Montezemolo, 65; Marina di Gioiosa Ionica Ristorante Abruzzino Via Fiume Savuto; Catanzaro Ristorante Alice Via Boiano, 4; Tropea Ristorante La Scogliera Località Le Castella; Isola di Capo Rizzuto Ristorante Pietramare Praia Art Resort; Isola di Capo Rizzuto

WHAT TO READ Old Calabria, by Norman Douglas, and By the Ionian Sea, by George Gissing, are good literary companions. Tasting Italy, from National Geographic Books and America’s Test Kitchen, explores regional cuisines.

WHERE TO STAY In addition to the hotels mentioned in the story, agriturismos—working farms that take in guests— are a great way to meet local people (agriturismo .it). I stayed at Agriturismo Contrada Guido (contrada guido.it), in Sellia Marina, and Agriturismo ‘A Lanterna, in Monasterace (alanterna.it).

WHERE TO DINE Urchins, swordfish, lobster, all the fish of the sea—feast on these everywhere. But Calabrian food is also rustic and hearty, with rich pasta sauces, the most succulent roast pork, and perfectly baked bread. Casa Vela Wine Bar Via Annunziata, 18; Chianalèa di Scilla Cremeria Sottozero Corso Vittorio Emanuele III, 83; Reggio Calabria

Travel Wise: Calabria

FABIO ITRI/ULIXES PICTURE (HORSE); NG MAPS, MAP DATA: © OPENSTREETMAP CONTRIBUTORS, AVAILABLE UNDER OPEN DATABASE LICENSE: OPEN

STREETMAP.ORG/COPYRIGHT

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APRIL/MAY 2019 85

gleaming. And why not—the police uniforms were designed by Valentino. Picturesque Chianalèa we explore quickly. Time for an aperitivo at a busy wine bar, then dinner overlooking the sea. Swordfish, of course, here in swordfish central. We fall into con- versation with a young couple on holiday from Modena. By the end of the evening, we’ve more or less dined together. Walking back through the stony little village late at night, it’s quiet and dark. Everyone sleeping. Possibly dreaming watery dreams. On our last day, we drive to Reggio Calabria to visit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, one of the best in Italy. First, a walk on the fabulous seaside promenade along Lungomare Falcomatà. Reggio Calabria, destroyed in an earthquake in 1908, then heavily bombed by the Allies in World War II, still retains the atmosphere of a tropical, laid-back port with its twisted banyan and blooming jacaranda trees. We stop into Sottozero Cremeria, 125 flavors of gelato and counting. An elderly man wanders among the tables, chatting to customers. When he comes to ours, we meet Tito, the owner, who started making gelato in 1974. He signals the waiter to bring over a coupe of almond gelato between chocolate wafers. We’ve already tried the hazelnut, coffee, and lemon. He gives us a jar of annona di Reggio sauce. “A special fruit that only grows here,” he claims. “Try it.” These generous gifts! All over Calabria, we’ve been given sauces, pastas, jams, honey. Inside the handsome 1932 museum: the entire history of Calabria in objects, from the Neolithic to the Bronze Age and onward. Impossible to describe the treasures. “Astonishing” is hardly adequate when facing a dolium, a six-foot-high olive oil storage jar from 1150 B.C. Or a 300 B.C. child’s tomb in the shape of a sandaled foot. And all the finds from the Greek sites— terra-cotta ex-votos, written tablets, roof tiles and drains, a gold crown, as well as magnificent sculptural groups. A Hellenistic grave of a young woman yielded delicate ram’s-head earrings set with gems, a scarab ring, and, inside her mouth, a gold coin, perhaps to pay for her passage to another world, but unspent. We wander, dazzled. We arrive at the bronze Riace Warriors. Two glorious nude men, 6’6” and 6’5” in height, fixed on seis- mic bases in a controlled atmosphere. Found in 1972 at a depth of only 23 to 26 feet of water, just off Riace in the Ionian Sea, they might have been jettisoned from a Greek ship in distress. Warrior A and Warrior B are their pedestrian names. No one really knows their origins. Fifth century B.C.? Some scholars argue that they’re later. But here they are. They show their teeth. Silver, along with silver eyelashes and ivory irises, copper mouths and nipples. Their buttocks are taut, their beards groomed, their poses power- ful.Un altro mondo,another world, I was told. These mysterious visitors from the beginning symbolize Calabria. Sensuous and aloof. Ancient. Fierce and proud.