National Geographic Traveler USA - 08.2019 - 09.2019

(Darren Dugan) #1
ROBERT VAN DER HILST/GETTY IMAGES (HATS); PREVIOUS PAGE: WILLIAM HEREFORD (CHURCH); TAMER KOSELI (ALL ILLUSTRATIONS)

KNOW IT


QUITO


A


hacienda estate until the early 1900s, this wildflowered area was
one of the first neighborhoods to emerge as the city expanded
beyond its colonial borders between the World Wars. There are
ornate Italianate mansions, low-slung early modernist houses, and high-
rise apartment buildings. Artists and creatives began moving in some
20 years ago to give it the alternative, indie vibe it has today. “The first
inhabitants of La Floresta brought with them the spirit of the historic
center, the panaderías, cafeterías, lavanderías, sastrerías—what we call
oficios, or trades,” says Vinueza. “Along with the more recent graffiti art-
ists, musicians, and filmmakers, it’s what gives this barrio its aliveness.”
You don’t need an elaborate plan. Just wander. You might decide to
take in an art film at the pioneering OCHOYMEDIO THEATER or visit the
offices of travel magazine ÑAN to purchase some authentic souvenirs staff
picked up during their sojourns throughout the country. Scoop up designer-
made decor from LIBERTINA TIENDA GALERIA or sample superfoods like
quinoa at VEGANO DE ALTURA and chocolate at HOJA VERDE. Time for un
cafecito (a black coffee)? Head to JERVIS or BOTÁNICA. For a free guided
stroll of the neighborhood, check out QUITO STREET TOURS.

NATGEOTRAVEL.COM


La Floresta


A barrio with everything
essential: coffee, culture,
and chismes (gossip)


HOTEL MAMA CUCHARA

One of the city’s newest
boutique hotels grew out
of an old house in the
traditional working hood
of La Loma Grande, near
many of the sites in
the historic center. The
house once harbored
conspirators of the 1875
assassination of President
Gabriel García Moreno.
Now remodelers have
reversed years of neglect
and incorporated con-
temporary architecture
to create a structure that
evokes history without rep-
licating it. Ecuadorian art
adorns the rooms, and the
restaurant’s menu changes
daily to highlight dishes
from different provinces.

CASA GANGOTENA

With its prime location on
Plaza de San Francisco—
the heart of the historic
quarter—this is undoubt-
edly the best address in
the city. The former palace
home of presidents and
landowners was rebuilt in
art nouveau style with art
deco touches and eventu-
ally turned into a 31-room
hotel. Don’t miss the roof-
top terrace for unfettered
views of the old town.

LE PARC HOTEL

This sleek spot in New
Quito’s Benalcázar
neighborhood is walking
distance to crêperies,
cafés, and high-end shop-
ping, as well as La Carolina,
the city’s version of Central
Park, ideal for strolling and
jogging. Well-appointed
rooms feature mid-century
modern furniture.

Room Check


O TRENDY
O NEW
O CLASSIC

Panama hats were
born in Ecuador,
where they’re still
woven by hand from
toquilla straw.
Free download pdf