National Geographic Traveler USA - 08.2019 - 09.2019

(Darren Dugan) #1

TOM SCHIFANELLA (BASKETS), JAN RUDINSKY PHOTOGRAPHY (DANCER), KATE STASZCZAK (FOOD), CARSTEN SCHERTZER (SURFERS)



  1. PENGLIPURAN


Getting an Eyeful


The sound of the alarm
clock in the wee hours
may be jarring, but this
adventure is worth the
early rise. Lace up your
boots for a guided hike by
flashlight up Mount Batur.
As you approach the top,
prepare for an epic vision
of the sun rising over the
volcano’s fog-shrouded
lake. Other nearby spots
for scenic strolls include
the frozen-in-time village
of Penglipuran—home to
the indigenous Bali Aga
people—the fairy-tale
bamboo forest, and the
dramatic Tukad Cepung
waterfall, reached by
descending some 500
steps into a narrow gorge
where beams of sunlight
set the water aglow.


  1. SUKAWATI


Time for Tradition


Villages here often have
a specialty, and Celuk’s
is silver. The family-run
Prapen Jewelry Artifacts
compound is the place to
watch silversmithing and
even try your own hand
at it. Pick up woodwork
and textiles in the bustling
Sukawati Art Market, and
catch a performance of
Bali’s legendary Barong
and Kris dance—depicting
a mythical saga involving
black magic—at nearby
Putra Barong.


  1. PADANG PADANG
    BEACH


The Life Aquatic


Drop in on daily displays
of dance and gamelan
music at the sprawling
Garuda Wisnu Kencana
Cultural Park, then follow
the surfboard-toting
motorbikes down to
Baby Padang to score
lessons and gentle first
waves. (If you’re expe-
rienced, go for Padang
Padang or Impossibles.)
Check in to clifftop digs
at Uluwatu Surf Villas to
gaze upon mesmerizing
ocean vistas. A short drive
to Bingin Beach reveals
Lucky Fish, where you can
sample the daily catch, sip
a Bintang beer, and wiggle
your toes in the sand. In
Bali the simplest things are
often the most magical.

BALI BY MOTORBIKE:
TIPS FOR EASY RIDING

Þ Wear a helmet—beyond
safety, it’s the law.
Þ Bring an international
driving permit, which
will help you avoid any
hassles at traffic stops.
Þ Remember to drive on
the left side of the road.
Þ Use your horn boldly
and often to signal your
presence on blind turns.
Þ Go with the flow!

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Clockwise from top:
baskets with offerings to
the gods; a raw, vegan
dish at the Fivelements
resort; surfers at sunrise;
a performer of Bali’s
traditional legong dance


  1. TEMPLE OF
    LEMPUYANG LUHUR


Local Highlights


Make a refueling stop at
Bali Asli, whose name
means “original.” Though
chef Penelope Jane
Williams is an expat,
she serves up authentic
culinary experiences at this
restaurant/school, where
visitors cook over wood-
fired stoves while learning
about bumbu (a spice
mixture)—be prepared for
a kick! Continue on to Lem-
puyang Luhur, one of Bali’s
oldest, highest, and most
sacred temples. Tackle
the hike up or stay at the
bottom for a photo against
the iconic candi bentar, a
split gateway. Then cool
off at Taman Tirta Gangga,
former royal bathing pools
popular with locals.
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