National Geographic Traveler USA - 08.2019 - 09.2019

(Darren Dugan) #1

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 81


flour for sweet canistrelli biscuits, turned into paste to spread on


fresh bread, made into liqueur, baked into a savory polenta-like


pudding, and enthusiastically consumed not only by the human


residents of the island, but also by sangliers, semiwild boars,


whose meat is flavored by their predilection for the nut.


I buy two jars of honey. Tapping one of the lids, the vendor


says, “Strong.” When I sample it, I let out an involuntary “Whoa,”


surprised by a completely un-honeylike bite. Instead of a round


sweetness, this honey came armed with a sharp, astringent note


of ... Marmite? Makeup remover? Even before I can properly


the faces of singers making


such a religious sound.


undisguised passion in


I’d never seen such


This was not a church pew


bathroom floor prayer.


prayer. This was a

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