016 Cycle Touring Syria

(Leana) #1

(^36) Damascus – Roadside restaurant - 74 kilometres

The tailwind we enjoyed departing Damascus soon became a howling crosswind, to
such an extent I got blown off the bike, and landed in a ditch next to the road.
After the third such incident, I shouted abuse at Ernest who seemed not to notice.
Mercifully, a shelter was discovered at a nearby roadside restaurant. The owner
offered us floor space above the restaurant to spend the night.
Roadside restaurant - Homs – 95 kilometres

By morning, calm conditions made for comfortable cycling to Homs, 95 kilometres
away. At a roadside breakfast stop, a kind Samaritan invited us to a meal that
became a feast of hummus, olives, cheese and various pastries. Afterwards, we
set off with full stomachs, and I don’t know what Ernest was on, but he rode
straight into a stationary minivan! And that in full daylight! Nothing was broken
except his ego and the van’s taillight.

The Al Naser Hotel in Homs was easily the crummiest but the cheapest in town.
The toilets were filthy, and one had to pay extra for the strange paraffin-heated
shower.
The following day, a minivan took us to Krak Des Chevaliers, which I visited with
Amanda only a short time before. The complex consists of an imposing Crusader
castle and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The castle was initially built for the Emir
of Aleppo in 1031 CE. In its hay day, it housed some 2,000 people including
infantry, crossbow specialists and mercenaries. However, the actual number of
brother knights was as few as 60, according to records dating to 1255 CE. Today,
it remains one of the finest medieval castles anywhere. A few hours were spent
marvelling at this magnificent structure.

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