Even before moving to Los Angeles in December, when Patricia
Escárcegaand I joined The Timesas co-restaurant critics, I was convinced this was the most dynamic and
delicious food city in America. Writing weekly restaurant reviews for The Times has given that grand notion
an on-the-ground realness — community by community, meal by meal. Looking over my first six months of
reviews, these seven restaurants stood out as an ensemble that typifies the scope and energy of Los Angeles
dining right now. The roundup includes a food truck in operation since 2013; it serves a carnitas taco that has
become one of L.A.’s defining dishes. Most of these, though, are newcomers: They’ve only recently introduced
(for starters) singular takes on sublime oxtails, herbaceous Northern Thai stews and Taiwanese-style
sandwiches, but their presence in the city already feels indispensable.
Porridge + Puffs
The restaurant’s twee-
sounding name belies the intrica-
cies of Minh Phan’s cooking. “Por-
ridge” is shorthand for Phan’s
complex, soothing compositions:
Many begin with an aromatic base
using rice from Central Califor-
nia’s Koda Farms. Poultry and
Mushrooms, one staple on the
menu, layers chicken, ground
turkey spiked with salty-sweet soy
sauce, shiitakes, pickled celery,
frizzled shallots and a small hill of
chopped green onions: Eating it is
like listening to the kind of sym-
phony that compels you to lean
forward and catch the quiet nu-
ances. Phan’s imagination and
devotion to the seasons drive the
short, ever-changing menu. Din-
ner hours are limited; think of the
Historic Filipinotown restaurant
foremost as a calming destination
for lunch and Sunday brunch.Alta Adams
On the surface, Keith Corbin’s cooking — which he de-
scribes as “California soul food” — exalts the foods of the American
South: oxtails over rice, fried chicken, smothered steak, macaroni
and cheese. Corbin, a native of Watts, grew up on these dishes. But
his intention is also to lighten and refresh a lexicon that, as he sees
it, moved away from its agrarian roots and suffers from a stigma of
being unhealthy. For example, he pulls back on dairy and sugar for
his take on candied yams (enriching them with almond milk and a
gloss of browned butter) without sacrificing enjoyment. He sea-
sons collard greens with vinegar, chile flakes and smoked oil and
bundles them in a steamed collard leaf creased like an envelope.
Miso and soy sauce add subtle umami to his oxtails, the West Ad-
ams restaurant’s finest dish. For sheer indulgence, pair the fried
chicken with cornmeal pancakes at brunch.Carnitas El Momo
Anyone who lives in Los Angeles and partakes of pig should
know the splendor of the El Momo food truck’staco mixtaat least
once. The masterpiece combines four cuts of the pork that the
Acosta family braises for hours in copper cauldrons. The family
suggests trying at least one taco dressed with only pickled vegeta-
bles — the style preferred in Salamanca, Mexico, where family
patriarch Romulo “Momo” Acosta learned the art of exceptional
carnitas. One worthy variation: a mulita, with the carnitas sand-
wiched between two tortillas and sealed with queso blancothat
oozes and seizes on the griddle. The truck most frequently parks
in Boyle Heights; check El Momo’s Instagram account for the
day’s location.REVIEW ROUNDUP
These seven restaurants
capture the dynamic scope
of Los Angeles dining now
Fried chicken, candied yam gratin, carrots and other sides.Mariah TaugerLos Angeles TimesMichael Owen BakerFor The TimesSlow-braised short ribs with jujubes, turmeric-fermented greens and jasmine pickles.Ricardo DeAratanhaLos Angeles TimesBILLADDISONRESTAURANT CRITIC>>>1
(^23)
A mulita, top, and a combination plate of pork tacos, below.
Calvin B. AlagotLos Angeles Times
F2 THURSDAY, AUGUST 1, 2019 LATIMES.COM/FOOD
Taiwanese style
The Most Valuable Playa is openin
Westchester from the owners of
Mee and Greet and Humble Po-
tato. The Taiwanese-influenced
menu includes Sichuan hot
chicken sandwiches, braised pork
rice bowls, ma you jimade with
Mary’s Chicken and gua bao-
inspired burgers with pork belly
and pickled carrots.
Info: 8321 Lincoln Blvd., Los Ange-
les, (310) 910-0367, instagram.com
/themvpla
Go Loko
Tacos El Kochi Loko is popping up
in downtown and Echo Park. The
truck specializes in cochinita pibil,
offering the Yucatán Peninsula’s
specialty of slow-cooked, citrus-
and-achiote-marinated pork in
tacos, burritos, vampiros, tortas
and handmade sopes.
Info:instagram.com/tacos
elkochiloko
Hidden dragon
Mr. Dragon Noodle House is now
open in Rosemead from the own-
ers of PP Pop. The menu is packed
with Chinese and Taiwanese sta-
ples including beef rolls, popcorn
chicken, soup dumplings, beef
noodle soup and dandannoodles.
There’s also Japanese-style ra-
men.
Info: 8526 Valley Blvd., Rosemead,
(626) 899-8886
Back to 90210
A “Beverly Hills 90210”-inspired
diner named after fictional hang-
out the Peach Pit will pop up on
Melrose with complimentary food
and drink. Find it in the evenings
of Aug. 1 and 2, and during the day
on Aug. 2 and 3. Reservations are
no longer available, but walk-ins
will be accepted based on avail-
ability.
Info: 7507 Melrose Ave., Los Ange-
les, popsugar.com/peachpit
Vegan goodies
Cake Girl is open in the former
soda fountain at the historic St.
Louis Pharmacy in Boyle Heights.
The menu at the vegan bakery,
which kept the soda fountain’s
original counter, includes straw-
berry churro cupcakes, nondairy
horchata, vanilla cake doughnuts,
muffins, cookies and brownies.
Info: 2100 E. 1st St., Boyle Heights,
(323) 305-4623,hellocakegirl.com
La dolce pita
Pita Pitaki is open in Long Beach.
The menu of Greek eats is fairly
orthodox, including charbroiled
lamb gyros, moussaka, pork skew-
ers, dolmades and baklava.
Info: 3401 Cherry Ave., Long
Beach, (562) 424-0446,facebook
.com/pages/category/Greek
-Restaurant/Pita-Pitaki
-1922614194707126/
Sichuan skewers
Hi Beef House is now open in
Alhambra. The menu features
Sichuan-style skewers cooked in
hot pots, with options such as fish
balls, meatballs, vegetables, sliced
beef and chicken.
Info: 2718 W. Valley Blvd., Alham-
bra
Kiin folk
Kiin Thai Eatery is now open in
Burbank. The menu includes tom
kha, fish cakes, satay, Panang
curry and pineapple fried rice.
Info: 1907 W. Magnolia Blvd., Bur-
bank, (818) 558-5051,facebook.com
/Kiinthaieateryla
Closings
Greenleaf Gourmet Chopshop is
closed after a year in Beverly Hills.
We Have Noodles is now closed
after nearly two years in Silver
Lake.
Extras
Peruvian restaurant Mancora will
open a second location in East Los
Angeles at the intersection of
Pomona and Atlantic boulevards.
The original location opened in
2017 in Alhambra.
Info:271 S. Atlantic Blvd., East Los
Angeles, mancoraperuvian.com
Michael and Katy Fosselman will
open the Ice Cream Shop in Glen-
dora in September. The shop will
serve Fosselman’s ice cream from
the 100-year-old family company.
Info: 180 N. Glendora Ave., Glen-
dora, (626) 852-0810
CAmily Tsai For The Times
NEWSFEED
Hanna Carter For The Times
1,000
The number of orders
this tiny Glendale
specialist — called,
fittingly, Mini Kabob
— makes every week.
—Amy Scattergood