Classic Ford – August 2019

August 2019 71

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With the activation wire spliced into the main

full-beam circuit, you need to mount your relay.

We mounted ours on the wing closest to the

battery. For ease we used a pre-drilled hole in the

wing top to secure the relay, but you can drill a

hole and mount the relay wherever you want.

To do this we exposed around an inch of each wire

before soldering them together then moved the

heat shrink over the soldered area and, using the

still hot soldering iron, shrank the wrap in place.

Run a wire to from the relay to the nearest lamp.

Attach a female connector, and at the other end a

connector to fi t to the one on the back of your

lamp. Cut a length of wire to go between the two

lamps. Take one end and the lamp end of the other

wire coming from the relay, fi x them into the

connector and attach to the fi rst lamp. You should

now have one wire unconnected — this needs to

be attached to the back of the other lamp.

You a live feed from the battery. Cut a piece of wire

to the appropriate length, attach a suitably-sized

ring connector to one end and a female spade

connector to the other. Now attach the ring

connector to the live (red) battery terminal and the

other end to the appropriate male spade

connector on the relay.

With the unit fi xed you need to earth it to the body.

Take a length of wire and attach a ring connector to

one end and a female spade connector to the

other. Connect the spade end to the male spade

connector on the relay and the ring connector over

the screw holding the relay in place.

With your drill holes marked up you’ll need to use

a punch (or anything that’ll create a small dent for

the drill bit to sit in) to allow your drill bit to bite into

the metal and not squirm off to the side.

Use a small drill bit to create a pilot hole (check that

there’s nothing behind where you’re drilling), this

will bite into the metal more easily than a larger

diameter one. Then use a drill bit with a diameter

just larger than the bolt to create the proper hole.

Mounting the brackets

Offer the brackets up to the bodywork. Bear in

mind where you lamps will sit, then mark up the

drill holes with a fi bre-tip pen.

Go through your new wiring and, using cable ties,

tidy it all up by attaching it to the bodywork or other

fi xed components to prevent it fl apping around

and catching on moving components. Reconnect

the battery terminal, and switch your lights on!

Disconnect the battery. Once you’ve located the

right wire for the full beam circuit you need to take

a feed from it. To do this you’ll need to splice in a

separate wire — remember to give your new wire

plenty of length. We chopped the wire we wanted

to take the feed from about 5 inches from where it

connects to the back of the headlamp.

Wiring

You need to fi nd the wire which operates full

beam on your headlights — check each wire that

comes from behind the headlight assembly with a

multimeter or circuit detection screwdriver and

activate full beam on the steering column.

Once the brackets are on, just bolt your lamps on
to the pre-drilled platform.

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