2019-04-01 Taste and Travel International

ONCE KNOWN AS THE watermelon capital of America, Lodi is

now best known for zinfandel. It is the USA’s largest grape-

growing region, supplying fruit to winemaking regions (including

Napa and Sonoma) throughout the country and beyond its

borders. And within the Lodi AVA (American Viticultural Area)

itself a new breed of winemakers is turning those grapes into

some spectacular wines.

Lodi is located in the Mokelumne River Valley, about 35 miles

south of Sacramento, on the edge of the great San Joaquin and

Sacramento River Delta. Rich soils, winter rainfall and a mild year-

round climate tempered by cool breezes from the Delta are

conditions particularly suited to growing zinfandel. Immigrant

families, including Italian, Portuguese, Dutch and German, have

been farming the land here since the mid-1800s and some vines

are now more than 100 years old.

You’ll know when you enter San Joaquin County — the land is

flat; vineyards and farm fields stretch toward the horizon in every

direction. Downtown Lodi, with its distinctive Mission arch,

vintage train station and water tower, has a lazy, laid-back charm.

Some historic buildings still serve their original function, others

re-purposed as boutiques and eclectic stores, restaurants and

winery tasting rooms. Brick pathways shaded by leafy sycamores

add to the small-town appeal.

There are close to 100 wineries in and around Lodi. Michael

McCay owns one of them. His downtown tasting room, backing

onto the railway lines, was once a fruit-packing shed for Dole.

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stuck in the Northern California town these days should count their blessings, kick back

and enjoy the hiatus with a plate of local food and a fine bottle of wine.

24 TAST E&^ TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL^ APRIL–JUNE 2019

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QUENCH LINGERING IN LODI