...We tasted local olive oils and learned about
the fine craft of making santon...
T
HE FRENCH TGV intercity train
is an integral part of Europe’s rail
network, connecting passengers to
Brussels and London, west to the
coastlines of Brittany, and east to
the valleys of Champagne and the
historic city of Strasbourg. But we’re on the Paris-
Lyon-Marseille line, heading to one of the most
glorious regions in France... Provence.
This southeastern region extends from the
lower Rhine River in the west, to the Italian border
in the east and the Mediterranean Sea to the
south. Having located the airport’s convenient
TGV Station below Terminal 2 at Charles De Gaulle
airport, we boarded our quiet train compartment.
Promptly at the departure time, the train left
the terminus, moving smoothly on magnetic
tracks (without any jerking from the coupling ofcarriages), easing out of the Paris suburbs before hitting
its breathtaking cruising speed of 300 kilometres an hour.
In Aix-en-Provence we picked up our car and drove to
the region of Haute-Provence, set between the Alps and
the Mediterranean. The charming town of Château-Arnoux,
set on the right bank of the Durance River, is home to the
Relais & Châteaux property, La Bonne Étape. This beautiful
inn, formerly an 18th-century post house, has been run by
the Gleize family for generations, welcoming travellers
looking to enjoy the local surroundings as well a culinary
experience in their Michelin-starred restaurant. Chef and
Proprietor Jany Gleize reinvents some of the classic
Provençal dishes made by his grandmother Gabrielle.
Desserts, such as his famous lavender honey ice cream
served in a honeycomb, are an ode to Jany’s confectioner
father Pierre.
La Bonne Étape has 18 unique rooms and suites,
equipped with modern comforts and decorated withPHOTOS THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT Santons;
Oysters and wine at Patio
des Vignes; Market figs;
Lamb chops with tomato
confit and fresh herbs;
Market day in Sisteron;
Cured ham and melon;
Herb crusted sausages;
Olive oil label.50 TAST E&^ TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL^ APRIL–JUNE 2019
F R A N C E
DESTINATIONS PROVENCE