classic furnishings and antiques. Our top
floor suite had a sweeping view of the inn’s
garden and pool terrace, along with the
surrounding countryside and hills beyond.
Chef Gleize oversees two restaurants at
the inn. The bistro, Au Goût du Jour,
splashed in fresh Provençal colours, offers
hearty regional cuisine, with a menu that
changes daily based on what’s available
from the market or the inn’s garden. The
timber-beamed dining room houses the
more formal Michelin-rated restaurant.
Breakfasts are a sunrise pleasure with an
array of charcuterie, cheeses, fresh local and
exotic fruits, and a selection of tempting
viennoiseries. Our visit to the bistro revealed
a short but wonderful menu of seasonal
specialties, including fragrant Cavaillon
melon paired with slices of aromatic cured
ham, and a plump, seared duck breast
garnished with panisse, the large, regional
‘French fry’ made with chickpea flour.
But the standout was the celebration of
renewed classics in the dining room. Thin
slices of vitello tonnato (veal with tuna-caper
sauce) crowned a colourful collection of juicy
heirloom tomatoes. Flavourful lamb came
from nearby Sisteron. A tender veal loin sat
in a pool of intense, olive-infused reduction.
Delicate stuffed zucchini blossoms atop an
intense tomato purée and aubergine sauce
could have changed me into a vegetarian.
As in the rest of France, there’s a regular
farmers’ market in the area, and we headed
out with Chef Gleize to discover what
neighbouring Sisteron has to offer. Here we
met generations of family farmers, producers
of cheese, charcuterie, patissiers and various
craftspeople. Sometimes called the Gateway
to Provence because it is situated between
two long mountain ranges, Sisteron is
renowned for its steep citadel and 12th-
century cathedral.
Leaving the northern gateway we drove
south to the ancient town of Vaison La
Romaine, well known for its Roman ruins
located on the valley floor, medieval town
located higher on the rocky cliff and 11th-
century cathedral, not to mention a vibrant
art scene. For wine lovers, it’s also a hotspot
for the famous vineyards of Gigondas,
Beaume de Venise, Rasteau and
Châteauneuf du Pape.
We stayed at the beautiful, contemporary
guest house Patio des Vignes, hidden among
the sloping vineyards of the town of
APRIL–JUNE 2019 TAST E& TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL 51
F R A N C E
PROVENCE DESTINATIONS