2019-04-01 Taste and Travel International

(Nancy Kaufman) #1
Ségueret. The lodging consists of two small houses
(perfect for families) and a couple of comfortable
guest rooms arranged around a lovely infinity pool,
interconnected by a bright communal kitchen and
social room.
Driving towards Vaison La Romaine, we stopped at
Denis Voeux’ Les 3 Souquets, where we tasted local
olive oils and learned about the fine craft of making
santon, the traditional Christmas village characters
that can be found in all Provençal homes during the
holiday season.
One of the most magnificent estate wineries we
visited was the family-run La Verrière, with its Chêne
Bleu wines, in the secluded valley of Crestet. This
sprawling medieval priory has been meticulously
restored by its new owners, Xavier and Nicole Rolet,
who spent some 12 years researching the history of
the abandoned structure and bringing it back to life as
a spectacular bed and breakfast lodging, as well as a
winery producing award-winning wines, made to
organic and biodynamic principles.
Although I have visited Provence numerous times,
I had never been to Avignon. After spending a couple
days in this renowned medieval city, I can’t wait until
my next visit.
The huge Gothic Palais des Papes (Palace of the
Popes), was home to nine Sovereign Pontiffs in the 14th
century, making the city a major political and spiritual
capital of the western world and giving rise to a
significant architectural heritage, which is today a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors can rent high-
tech ‘Histopads’ that display visuals of what the
various spaces, from the throne rooms to the banquet
hall and kitchens, looked like during the period,
enhanced with augmented reality. Evening brings the
ancient walls to life with an impressive 360-degree
light and sound show called Vibrations.
Les Halles is the busy covered daily market, with
about 40 traders selling mainly local and seasonal
products. Cuisine Centr’Halles is owned and operated
by Californian Chef Jonathan Chiri. His menu rotates
depending on what’s fresh and in season in the
market. Taking part in a morning market tour and
cooking class, we learned to break down guinea fowl
and serve it as confit, pan-roasted with a mélange of
fresh chanterelles and arugula. Then, aromatic
poached apricots with sweetened fromage blanc and
one of my favourites — warm Madeleines.
Newly opened, Le Carré du Palais is a wine school,
wine-bar and restaurant showcasing the Côtes-du-
Rhône region, holding workshops, tastings and
introductory classes for this important area.
From Avignon we headed south-east to one of the
most picturesque villages in Provence, Lourmarin,

PHOTO THIS SPREAD
View of Sisteron
from the Citadel.

52 TAST E&^ TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL^ APRIL–JUNE 2019


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DESTINATIONS PROVENCE

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