Sunset At The Palms
http://www.sunsetpalmsnegril.com
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restaurants, leading to a penchant for fusion cooking back in
Jamaica. Moore joined Celebrity cruise lines, which he says
provided superb training, bringing him to international ports
where exotic products challenged his creativity.
That range of background isn’t lost on farmer Milton
Murdock. He says he grows whatever crops chefs want — “I’m
really a custom grower for most of the time” — but he tries to
introduce them to unfamiliar products, too. “My primary
challenge is developing demand for new products,” he says.
“Ex-pat chefs will know about exotic products or be open to
them. But local chefs don’t. I have to educate them.”
Even so, Chef Moore complains there’s so much demand
across Jamaica for local fruit that it’s getting hard to source
some of the country’s iconic items, including sweetsop,
soursop, Jamaican apples and ackee. “It’s easier to get
American fruit,” he says. “Local farmers need to step up.” But
that hasn’t stopped Sunset at the Palms from providing that
wide array of local dishes guests visit Jamaica for: coconut
pancakes, curried chickpeas and pumpkin, callaloo frittata,
boiled green bananas, codfish with ackee, Blue Mountain
coffee, oxtail stew, and more. National cuisine is the focus of
weekly cooking classes at the resort, too.
Chef Morris and the resort’s operations manager, Romeo
McIntyre, were picking up an order at Murdock’s farm a
couple of years back when they were struck with an idea:
why not offer hotel guests a farm tour? “With so many
people now trying to have a healthy lifestyle, we saw the
benefit of the farm-to-table experience on display as a
winner,” McIntyre recalls. “With the wide array of products
coupled with the knowledge of Mr Murdock as a champion
farmer for Jamaica, we saw where this could be an exciting
prospect for our guests.” Those guests would pick produce,
perhaps try fishing in a tranquil pond on site, and enjoy it all
as part of an on-site lunch.
The plan awaits needed approval from a couple of
government agencies, one of which has recently signalled its
okay. McIntyre hopes remaining bureaucracy will be cleared
in time for a soft launch in early 2019. Meanwhile, they’re test
driving the experience with selected repeat guests, getting
user feedback along the way.
Until then, settle for our feedback: this truly wonderful
farm-to-table-and-back-to-farm experience made us
appreciate deeply Jamaica’s culinary prowess. Bland
buffet fare is a thing of the past.
PETER JOHANSEN taught journalism at Carleton
University in Ottawa for nearly 40 years.
SERVES 4–6
Jamaican Jerk Chicken
CHEF DWIGHT MORRIS popularized this authentic recipe when
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Chicken 1, cut into pieces
(^1) Or 1 Tbs ground thyme.
Jerk Sauce
Allspice 2 tsp
Brown Sugar ½ cup,
packed
Ginger minced, ½ tsp
Garlic 6–8 cloves
Habanero or Scotch
Bonnet Peppers
1 or 2
Thyme Leaves^1 2 Tbs
Green Onions 1 bunch
Cinnamon 1 tsp
Nutmeg ½ tsp
Coarse Salt
1 tsp or more, to taste
Pepper to taste
Soy Sauce 2 Tbs
Jerk Base
1 PROCESS all ingredients in a food processor or blender. Set aside
2 Tbs of the paste and rub the remaining paste all over the chicken.
Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Jerk Paste 2 Tbs
Red Stripe Beer^2 ¾ cup
Pineapple Juice ⅔ cup
Tomato Ketchup ¾ cup
2 SIMMER the sauce ingredients in a pan over low heat for 30 to 60
minutes, stirring often. Add more juice or beer to thin the sauce, or
simmer longer for a thicker sauce. Allow to cool and then refrigerate
in a jar. It will keep indefinitely in the fridge.
(^2) Or other Lager.
To Finish
3 BARBECUE the chicken over low heat, brushing with jerk sauce or
beer while grilling. Pour the remaining jerk sauce over the chicken
before serving.
APRIL–JUNE 2019 TAST E& TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL 71
FARM-TO-TABLE DINING
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