The Culinary Traveller’s Guide
Neighbourhoods
OLD MONTREAL Lining the edge of the St
Lawrence River is Vieux Montreal with its
cobblestone streets, picturesque squares,
old-world architecture, quais, cafés and
small parks. Amongst them you’ll also find
intimate fine-dining, such as Pastel, once
a café, now a playful small-plates gem.
Charming, although narrow, Rue St Paul is
where you’ll find many artisans, while Rue
de la Commune is a breezy waterfront
street teeming with cyclists, wandering
tourists and Cirque du Soleil patrons.
DOWNTOWN Rue Ste-Catherine is the busy
hub of downtown with big-name fashion
brands and department stores. But along
Notre-Dame Ouest and Rue Charlevoix is
a somewhat secluded eating and drinking
scene. For example, Restaurant Candide,
hidden in the back half of a church in the
suburb called Little Burgundy, is a unique
fine-dining experience.
LE PLATEAU MONT-ROYAL This is a hip area
for eating out (only second in “coolness”
to Mile End and Mile Ex), with a range
of restaurants for all meals of the day,
although if you eat at the famous Au Pied
du Cochon, you may not need any other
meals! You’ll also find a healthy amount
of BYOB bistros and big plates along Le
Jardins de Panos.MILE END, MILE EX and LITTLE ITALY
Looking to do some culinary shopping?
Little Italy is the best area for kitchen
items. These neighbourhoods are also
where you’ll find some really unique,
although not necessarily pricey, bistros,
lounges and many cafés. Hip new Mile Ex
is considered Montreal’s most creative
area, with hidden bars, brasseries and
many boutique eateries. Within the
few-block radius of Mile End you’ll find a
global variety of foods: from Italian pasta
shops; to Jewish sweets stores; to Greek
vegetarian bistros and even North African
food. It’s also where you’ll find St Viateur
street, sometimes referred to as “sesame
street” for the trail of sesame seeds that
lead to the famous 24-hour bagel shops
of the same name.Markets
MARCHÉ JEAN-TALON This is the city’s
largest food market, with several
hundred stalls selling all kinds of fresh
produce, and offering many taste
tests! There are also several delis and
cafés where you can get sandwiches,
crêpes and other meals. 7075 Ave
Casgrain, 7 am–6 pm Mon, Wed and
Sat; to 8 pm Thu and Fri; to 5 pm Sun.MARCHÉ ATWATER You’ll find this
market on the banks of the Canal de
Lachine. Inside the vaulted hall are
high-end delicatessens and specialty
food shops, outside are various other
vendors. 138 Ave Atwater, 7 am–6 pm
Mon-Wed; to 7 pm Thu; to 8 pm Fri; to
5 pm Sat and Sun.MARCHÉ BONSECOURS Built in 1847,
Montreal’s oldest public market sold
meats and fresh produce right up
until 1963. Although you won’t find
fresh ingredients here today, the
neoclassical heritage building is still an
edifice to be admired. It now houses
several cafés, and boutique shops
selling arts, crafts and fashion pieces.
In warmer months a number of al
fresco restaurants take over the front
façade at 350 Saint-Paul Est.
http://www.marchebonsecours.qc.caAll of Montreal’s markets are open
year-round. For a complete listing of
Montreal’s farmers’ markets see
http://www.marchepublics-mtl.comKitchen Stores
LES TOUILLEURS
152 Avenue Laurier Ouest.QUINCAILLERIE DANTE
6851 St-Dominique Street.There are many local
bagel bakeries. For a fresh
bagel any time of day, try
St-Viateur Bagel (open 24
hours) at their 263 St-Viateur Ouest
or location.For a more traditional bakery, visit
Boulangerie Guillaume with its cute
courtyard — a feature you’ll need as
this small bakery is a very popular
spot. Warning: their white-chocolate
brioche bread is addictive. 5134 St
Laurent Blvd.Montreal smoked meat is available
all over town, but try Schwartz’s — a
Montreal tradition since 1928 — while
you’re there pick up some Montreal
steak spice to bring home. Local’s tip:
Eat the pickle last to wash down the
fats. 3895 St-Laurent Blvd.
If you’re in search of Quebeçois
delicacies, such as cheeses, smoked
meats, preserves and more, visit
Marché des Saveurs (in Marché
Jean-Talon) and in Mile End stop in at
Boucherie Lawrence (5237 St-Laurent
Blvd.), whose charmingly hazy shop
proves they smoke the meat in-house!A great way to get acquainted with
Montreal’s different neighbourhoods
is a walking food tour. Try Local
Montreal Food Tours or Round Table
Tours for tours of areas like Mile End,
Old Montreal, the Plateau and more.
Bonus, food tour guides let you skip
lines at popular spots.
http://www.localfoodtours.com
http://www.roundtabletours.com.Montreal’s great tastes.đƫUnibroue
đƫMicrobrasserie de
Charlevoix
đƫLe Trou du diable
đƫLes Trois MousquetairesSome of Montreal’s
great brewers.Montreal BY EMILY KENNEDY
LIZ(^) W
ES
T
đƫGoudale
đƫBelle Guele
đƫBrasseurs du
Monde
đƫDieu du Ciel
đƫPit Caribou
đƫLe Castor
đƫLe Lièvre
đƫLes Soeurs
Grises
đƫBrasseurs
Illimités
đƫBrasseurs
Dunham
đƫLe Bilboquet
đƫMcAuslan
đƫL’Alchimiste
đƫCharlevoix
90 TAST E&^ TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL^ APRIL–JUNE 2019
TAST E& TRAVEL REGIONAL MARKETPLACE
M O N T R E A L
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