The Daily Telegraph - 24.07.2019

22 ***^ Wednesday 24 July 2019 The Daily Telegraph

I

f my journey to work this

morning told me anything, it’s

that sandal season has arrived.

Not a loafer, plimsoll or

summer boot in sight, as I

stood on the train platform

naked ankles and liberated toes

stretched as far as the eye could see.

Of course, with temperatures hitting

the mid thirties, if there was ever a

week to banish your socks to the

back of the drawer then this is

surely it.

Before slipping on a pair of

sandals, it’s worth investing in a little

TLC; months in boots and trainers

can leave one’s trotters looking

somewhat craggy. Dehusk heels with

Dr Scholl’s Velvet Smooth Wet & Dry

Pedi (£35.99, scholl.co.uk), then

slather on This Works Perfect Heels

Rescue Balm (£16, thisworks.com) to

soften. While the no-polish pedicure

is very au courant (everyone was

doing naked nails at Paris couture

week don’t you know), if your

toenails have befallen the same fate

as mine and are irreversibly stained

orange from years of red varnish,

consider a deep lavender which,

pedi-maestro Marian Newman

once told me, will detract from

knobbly toes.

If the thought of baring feet in

public fills you with dread then fear

not; this season’s abundant crop of

sandals means you can reveal as little

or as much skin as you like. From

front row-ready footbeds to Duchess-

approved espadrilles, here are the

styles to know about.

It’s officially ‘feet-

out’ season, but

which style should

you be adding to

your sandal

repertoire? Frankie

Graddon lays out

the choices

Find your

summer

sandal style

tribe

Fashion

Unzipped

For more debate, listen

to The Telegraph’s

Fashion Unzipped podcast

on Apple Podcasts now

FASHION

The new gladiator

A fixture of the early noughties boho

uniform (Sienna Miller was rarely

seen out of her Grecian lace-ups), the

gladiator sandal has made a

comeback. However, gone is the knee-

high lattice and studded

embellishment, this season’s

strappy flat is an altogether more

chic proposition thanks to a more

minimal approach.

Almost balletic in tone, Alighieri’s

flats (£280,net-

a-porter.com)

come with

satin ribbon

laces which

criss-cross over

the foot and tie

elegantly at

the ankle.

The addition of

a golden pendant,

which can be worn as a necklace once

sandal season ceases, makes for a

grown-up take on the anklet trend.

On the high street look to Kurt

Geiger and Mango, the latter’s sleek

tan leather iteration appearing far

more premium than their under

£50 price tag would suggest.

If you’re short of leg, choose styles

that lace low on the ankle in tans

and natural – dark colour can turn

legs stumpy.

Leather straps

£49.99

(mango.com)

It was not Celine Dion’s Chanel

spandex-clad presence that was the talk

of the town at the most recent Paris

couture week, but rather the

unexpected attendance of Birkenstocks,

which were spotted on the feet of

several fashion editors sat front row.

Chiming in with the current sartorial

mood for low-key luxe (see also raffia

and linen) the classic Arizona two-strap

Birk has been elevated to covetable

new heights thanks to a

slew of stylish

collaborations.

Currently

stocked on

matchesfashion.

com, the Il Dolce

Far Niente

collection is the go

to for those in the

fashion know.

At £300 plus, they’re somewhat

pricey (as are the myriad designer

Birk-a-likes from Louis Vuitton,

Chanel, Valentino et al) however,

offering cocktail-ready footwear with

the comfort-factor of a hotel slipper,

one could argue they’re well worth it.

Original styles in patent, metallic

leather or suede will also cut the

mustard and, at a more democratic

£60, means money left over for a round

of Martinis.

The fashion Birkenstock

Birkenstock

£330 (matches

fashion.com)

ks to a

The elevated thong

Last seen still covered in sand at the

bottom of your suitcase, beach-ready

thongs (shoes not pants) are perhaps

the most surprising sandal trend to

emerge. Initiated by the ubiquity of

Havaianas’ rubber flip-flops on the feet

of editors attending Copenhagen

fashion week, they have also been seen

on the catwalk at Tibi and Jacquemus.

At £20, a pair of Havaianas will lend

some budget-Brazilian flair to your

holiday

wardrobe.

However

when back

home switch

rubber for

leather (real or

faux) and Club

Tropicana brights

for classic black,

tan or natural.

Flip-flop label Tkees has become a

fashion editor favourite thanks to its

minimal leather styles which start from

£40. So sophisticated is the Duos

two-tone (£55, net-a-porter.com), they

can be worn into the office with a linen

trouser suit. For an evening thong, try

Ancient Greek Sandals Estia Flouria

(£185, ancient-greek-sandals.com)

which come with golden coin

embellishment and are the perfect

pairing to a black summer dress.

Estia Flouria

£185 (ancient-greek-

sandals.com)

The royal rope wedge

Smart and summery, not only does the

espadrille wedge provide a solution to

stylish heatwave dressing, it also has

the royal seal of approval. The Duchess

of Cambridge has worn a tan suede

iteration with cord ankle ties on several

outings lately, while the Duchess of

Sussex was spotted in black lace-up

versions during

her Australian

tour last year.

Spain-based

Castañer is the

espadrille brand

of choice for the

royals – and

indeed me; I

have the pink

“Carina” style

(£80, net-a-porter)

and can attest to

their comfort and

versatility. This season’s lemon motif

style will lend summer cheer to jeans

and a T-shirt, while a monochrome

pair, such as the chic all-black “Chiara”,

are suitable for formal occasions.

There is one pitfall to a rope sole; the

pong – a friend of mine had to abandon

her espadrille wedges on account of

them lending a pungent cheese note to

her suitcase. To limit whiffiness, try

spritzing them with water and white

wine vinegar at the end of the day.

Carina

£196

(farfetch.com)

Smartandsumme t ld th

Is this 2019’s most elegant

O

ne of the things I am

often asked when

people find out that I’m

a fashion editor is

“please, please show me

where to get great,

fashionable clothes as a size 16-plus

woman”. Sadly, I’m often stumped.

There are a few brilliant labels out

there, both specialists and household

names, like ASOS Curve, Navabi and

M&S Curve but truly special finds are

few and far between.

There is hope. Dolce & Gabbana

recently announced that it would be

extending its size range to a 22, I have

my fingers crossed that US brand

Universal Standard will be coming to

the UK soon and small label The Hour

creates beautiful pieces up to a size 32.

And there is always Marina Rinaldi, an

absolute gem in this market and an

offshoot of Italian house Max Mara.

So, brilliant news for anyone

searching for designer pieces up to a

size 28: Marina Rinaldi has enlisted

Roksanda Ilinčić as its latest design

collaborator. Roksanda shows are the

kind that fashion editors studiously

analyse and form the basis for their

personal shopping lists and new

season colour palettes. The autumn/

winter collection, for example,

comprised searing shots of fuchsia and

ochre, evolving into cranberry and

terracotta tailoring, with gentle twists

of lime, and jumpsuits and

coats in oatmeal shades more

calming than Qigong.

For her Marina Rinaldi

collection, Ilinčić has been

inspired by the work of

American artist Frank

Stella, drawing on his

graphic stripes and

abstract colour-

blocking. Sumptuous

claret and cobalt

cohabit on midis or

coats, which nod to

Max Mara’s famous

luxurious cover-ups;

Stella’s optical illusion

aesthetic is deployed

on silhouette-

enhancing dresses and

there are plenty of the

dramatic sleeves and

floor-grazing gowns,

a lot just by how they are. I don’t like

to show too much flesh but some

things are imposed on to us and we

should maybe rebel against that.”

Ilinčić’s appeal is universal; her

designs are as beloved by women

famed for their bold style (Michelle

Obama, Vanessa Redgrave, Helen

McCrory, Cate Blanchett) as those for

whom she offers a perfectly pitched

level of statement – the Duke of

which are Ilinčić classics. “In a time

when I feel we are all trying to do a

little bit more than we normally do to

improve the state of the world, it was

just a wonderful thing to be able to do

a project that talks positively,” Ilinčić

explains. “I thought I am not a huge

company, but I really want to do this

and I felt that this collaboration would

give me that platform to say

something that normally I

would not be able to.”

While many creatives speak

of attempting to conceal

when designing for

larger women, Ilinčić

was determined instead

to defy stereotypes,

introducing arm-

baring dresses and

tops. “Our culture has

imposed that women

have to hide their

arms, that it isn’t

nice to see them,”

the Serbian-born

designer says. “It

is just perception

but why not try to

change that? My

clothes do cover quite

Great plus-size fashion

is notoriously hard to

find, so Roksanda Ilinčić’s

collaboration with

Marina Rinaldi is good

news, says Bethan Holt

GIULIANO KOREN; REX; INVISION/AP; AFP/GETTY IMAGES

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