National Geographic Traveller India – July 2019

44 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JULY 2019

THE ITINERARY TAIWAN

PHOTO COURTESY:

TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU

(HOTEL),

TOP PHOTO GROUP RF/DINODIA PHOTO LIBRARY

(ROPEWAY),

SEJAL MEHTA

(COOP)

According to a survey in 2011, only
around 700 individuals of the Thao tribe
remain today. They live in communities
around Sun Moon Lake in central
Taiwan, more so in the regions of Toushe
and Pu-chi. In the 1800s, the Thao laid
claim over the Sun Moon Lake area, and
set up a functioning life until Chinese
settlers started to arrive in the 19th
century and later under the Japanese
rule in 1934. Today, the people depend
on agriculture (also having learnt the
cultivation of rice in paddy fields from
the Chinese), fishing, and hunting.
Staple crops include rice, sweet potatoes,
millet, peanuts, and maize.
The village is a significant walk (put
aside a couple of hours) with homes
constructed in the traditional style and
rituals portrayed by life-size figures in
traditional outfits. The placards around
the village offer information about the
patrilineal society and clan customs,
complete with a headman’s house.
Small stories about customs and rites of
passage play out in these installations,
such as, a skull collection of enemies and
learning the art of war. The importance
of hunting reveals itself in the skulls and
bones displayed on the walls of the huts.
Legends also play an important role in
this society. Lalu Island was apparently
revealed to the Thao tribe by a white
deer, who led them to a place that was
both beautiful and abundant in natural

Getting There

Flights from Indian hubs to Taipei

typically involve a layover in

Bangkok or Hong Kong. Take the

HSR (High-Speed Rail)from Taipei

Main Station to Taichung HSR

Station, which typically takes an

hour. From Taichung HSR Station

buses depart to Sun Moon Lake

every 15 minutes (80 km/1.5 hr).

Pro Tip

If you’re in the mood to lap

up luxury, nestled next to the

shoreline stands the magnificent

Lalu Hotel, the once-summer

home of Chiang Kai-shek (www.

thelalu.com.tw; doubles from

USD15,200/`10,52,000)

ESSENTIALS

resources (watch out for the statue of the

deer if you happen to take a boat ride

around the island). If you walk around

the sleek Xiangshan Visitor Centre

and the streets next to the piers, owl

motifs can be seen everywhere—wooden

carvings in Formosa and souvenir shops

selling them on nearly everything. The

Thao’s folklore carries a rather sad

story. A girl from the tribe became

pregnant before she was married. She

was ostracised and in the face of no

forgiveness, she ran away on a stormy

night only to be found dead under a tree

after a few days. An owl was perched on

the tree, and it is said that since then,

an owl would fly over homes of pregnant

women, as a reminder to treat them

better.

The Sun Moon Lake legends make for

good storytelling, and frequently one’s

pace turns into an idyllic stroll, before

packing up and returning to the dazzling

tempo of Taiwan’s bigger cities.

Japanese Crown Prince Hirohito once called the original Lalu property (top) his official
residence; Sun Moon Lake Ropeway (bot tom lef t) connects Formosa Village to the base of the
lake; A replica of a Thao chicken coop (bottom right) demonstrates the tribe's craftsmanship.