National Geographic Traveller India – July 2019

(Chris Devlin) #1
JULY 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 69

CARONB/ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES


(GRACELAND),


HORIZONS WWP/TRVL/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE


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FACING PAGE:

THE HOLLYWOOD ARCHIVE/DINODIA PHOTO LIBRARY

(ELVIS),

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(ALBUM),

DAN KOSMAYER/SHUTTERSTOCK

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lvis Presley was born in a
shotgun shack in Tupelo,
Mississippi, in 1935. ‘The
King’ moved to Memphis
when he was in high school and became
enamoured by the blues and country
that emanated from Beale Street, the
downtown drag. The curious thing
about Elvis is he didn’t ditch his
hometown in the dust for a penthouse
view as soon as his fame skyrocketed
and his wallet started to bulge. He
owned many houses, but none of them
were home like Memphis. When Elvis
was at his Graceland mansion he didn’t
keep himself locked up behind gilded
gates. Elvis was a man of the people,
who went to church with his folks, went
out for burgers with his wife, and goofed
around with his friends, a group he
called ‘The Memphis Mafia.’
The way the King carried himself is
mirrored by how Memphis remembers
him. There are few towns that honour
their heroes like Memphis honours Elvis.
Since the town hasn’t been Disney-fied
or inundated with anodyne tourist
traps, for the most part, his old haunts
are filled with vintage picture frames
and fond memories. And if you walk
around town, there’s a good chance you
might bump into an older Memphian
who knew or at least met Elvis—and any

betting man worth a hoot would wager a
peanut butter and banana sandwich that
the interaction was a pleasure for both.

GRACELAND
Elvis’s Graceland home features the
King’s intriguing Jungle Room. The
kitschy man cave is upholstered with
thick, dark green carpeting, decorated
with tiki-inspired furniture glistening
with a bright lacquer varnish, as well as
a built-in waterfall. It is both gaudy and
gorgeous, something only Elvis could
pull off, like his V-neck jumpsuits. The
den also moonlighted as a recording
studio for Elvis towards the end of his
career. Across the road from Graceland,
right next to where two of Elvis’ planes
are parked, fans can carve their names
into a small wooden bridge, a true rite of
passage for Presley lovers.

ARCADE RESTAURANT
Elvis loved to eat, and a great place to
share in that love is Arcade Restaurant,
which claims to be Memphis’s oldest
cafe. A breakfast of sausage biscuits
or sweet potato pancakes will do you
right, even if you don’t get to sit in Elvis’
favourite booth, which is often occupied
by hungry fans.

SUN STUDIOS
For music lovers, Sun Studios is an even
more impressive stop than Graceland.
Of course the King recorded here, but so
did B.B. King, Johnny Cash and Howlin’
Wolf. Musicians can record a track in
the real Sun Studios and take advantage
of its fabled acoustics—that is if they
shell out $200 (`13, 931) per hour.

LANSKY BROS.
Often referred to as The Clothier To The
King, Lansky Bros is the spot to pick
up Elvis-inspired swag. The story goes
that the owner, Bernard Lansky, was
kind to Elvis before he became Memphis
royalty, an act that resulted in the King’s
undying loyalty. Lansky had the honour
of dressing Elvis for The Ed Sullivan
Show, and legend has it, even suggested
that he start popping his collar, and pair
pink with black. And you can actually
buy a pair of blue suede shoes here.

MORE ELVIS STOPS
Visit Lauderdale Courts (Now Uptown
Square, the apartment complex where
Elvis grew up), and catch a concert at
Levitt Shell, a local outdoor venue where
he used to play.

U.S.A.


Part of the upstairs of Graceland (top) remains respectfully cordoned off, as the area
was where Elvis sought solitude. A favourite order of Elvis fans at the Arcade Restaurant
(b ot to m) is the Fried Peanut Butter ‘N’ Banana Sandwich—don’t forget to add bacon!

Memphis
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