National Geographic Traveller India – July 2019

(Chris Devlin) #1
CUBA

JULY 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 71

LUCAS VALLECILLOS/AGEFOTOSTOCK/DINODIA PHOTO LIBRARY


(DINNING)


FACING PAGE:

TASS\UIG/UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP/DINODIA PHOTO LIBRARY

(ERNEST HEMINGWAY),

CEM CANBAY/AGEFOTOSTOCK/DINODIA PHOTO LIBRARY

(CAR),

KANNAA/SHUTTERSTOCK

(ALPHABETS)

O


nce you’ve grooved to all the
salsa tunes the city croons;
when the old town’s plazas
and cathedrals have been
visited; when you’ve watched lovers and
fishermen at the Malecón, turn your eye
to Ernest Hemingway’s Havana.
After moving to Cuba in 1939, he
and his wife set up home 13 kilometres
southeast of Havana’s old town, and
called it Finca Vigia. It was here that
Hemingway wrote The Old Man and
the Sea, A Moveable Feast and Islands
in the Stream. Today, travellers who
wish to see his bookshelves, eye his
vinyl records—and his gin collection—
can take a tour of the home. His boat,
ElPilar, too stands in the grounds.
Back in Havana, there’s no better
homage to the writer than to make
your days and nights as boozy as you
can. Start with La Bodeguita del Medio,
and watch the bartenders mix rows
and rows of mojitos. Hemingway’s
motto—“My mojito in La Bodeguita,
my daiquiri in El Floridita”—lie
lovingly framed above the bar. The
latter has set its love for the man in
bronze. Enter El Floridita bar and
you’ll see Hemingway’s life-size statue
standing in his favourite corner,
looking approvingly at crowds downing
daiquiris.
Lastly, pop by at Hotel Ambos
Mundos, the art deco structure at the
heart of Habana Vieja (old town). Room
511 is left the way Hemingway last left
it, his typewriter and Louis Vuitton
case untouched. His size 11 shoes are in
there too, along with artworks gifted to
him by Pablo Picasso.

‘My mojito in


La Bodeguita,


my daiquiri in El


Floridita’


CUBA


The walls of La Bodeguita del
Medio, Ernest Hemingway's
beloved haunt in Havana,
carry autographs of Fidel
Castro, Nat King Cole, and
Harry Belafonte.

Havana
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