057 Cycle Touring Borneo

(Leana) #1

(^46) Niah National Park

The previous day's distance was still in my legs, making for a leisurely start. After
breakfast, I set out across the river on foot, from where I made my way to the
Niah cave. The route to the complex (consisting of an enormous set of caves) was
along a pleasant four-kilometre trundle through the forest. At these caves the
'Deep Skull' was unearthed, a human skull dating back approximately 42,000
years, making it the oldest modern human outside of Africa.
First was Traders Cave, where nest collectors gathered to sell their harvest. The
caves are still used by nest collectors (used for bird's nest soup). Thin poles
snaked up from the cave floor to the ceiling. But, unfortunately, they weren't
collecting during my visit.
Next was the aptly named Great Cave. This cave measured two hundred and fifty
metres across the mouth and sixty metres at its greatest height. The trail
disappeared into the bottom of the cave in pitch darkness. However, dramatic
light beams could be seen when the sun hid certain overhead vents. For
thousands of years, the caves were used as burial grounds, and I understand that
bodies were buried in boat-shaped coffins.
Strategically positioned bamboo poles and ladders made from ironwood were
evidence of bird's nest collectors. People have been practising this dangerous
occupation for generations. The half-a-million swiftlets living in the cave make
their nests purely from their salivary secretions. When the nests are cleaned and
cooked, they produce the famous bird's nest soup, which is as highly regarded in
Chinese cuisine as caviar is in the West.

Free download pdf