Taroko – Shimen - 92km ^33
My leisurely start was, primarily, due to my indecision about whether to stay an
additional day or not. In the end, the time was past ten o’clock before I got
underway. The coastal highway continued south and it became one more beautiful
day of riding my bike. From time to time, the route stuck close to the ocean and at
other times climbed up the mountainside, offering stunning views.
Being winter, it got dark relatively early, and I was unsure if it would be possible to
reach the campsite indicated on the map; luckily, Shimen came at the right time. A
conveniently situated roadside guesthouse and restaurant turned out to be another
intriguing experience. The bed was a futon, and I assumed the joint was a Japanese-
owned establishment.
Shimen – Dulan - 80km
The stretch between Shimen and Dulan marked my last day of riding along the
Philippine Sea. The path was hemmed in by the mountains and the ocean as I biked
past many tiny fishing hamlets. The rich Kuroshio Current ran close to the coast and
the primary income, not surprisingly, was from fishing. The route passed the Tropic
of Cancer Monument, and I was officially in the tropics. The many interesting places
made for exploring and provided a multitude of photo stops. Unaware Taiwan was
such a popular tourist destination, the many tour busses encountered came as a
surprise.
The assumption that the road would be level was incorrect. The coastal highway
climbed steadily to the Baci Observation Tower from where I sped down to lower
ground. The Caves of the Eight Immortals, and site of the earliest human
inhabitation of Taiwan, had sadly been turned into shrines, distracting somewhat
from its archaeological importance.
Dulan looked worth investigating and Dulan Café and rooms sported a Mexican
theme, famous English breakfast and quesadillas. Furthermore, the old Sugar
Factory (turned into a bar/music studio/art gallery) put Dulan firmly on the
Taiwanese travel radar and was thus an excellent place to spend the day, do laundry
and update travel logs.