059 Cycle Touring Taiwan

(Leana) #1

Dulan – Dawu - 95km ^37
The stretch between Dulan and Dawu was surprisingly varied. The first stop was at
Water Running Uphill, where water was clearly running uphill. Next, the route led
past rural fishing communities, eventually spitting me out at hot springs. Sadly, the
area was disappointing as it was immensely touristy, and I didn’t stay. Instead, I
followed the road past indigenous settlements revealing fascinating art.


The ride was hilly as the mountains came down to the coast. It couldn’t have been
an easy place to build a highway. However, a guesthouse at Dawu made a convenient
overnight stop as it offered an adjacent restaurant.


Dawu – Linyuan - 105km

My route turned inland and headed over the mountains to the west coast. The road
climbed steeply away from the coast and after 10 kilometres I could see the ocean
far below. Eventually, the road descended and, on reaching the ocean, veered north
along the South China Sea, in the direction of Taipei. Arriving at the coast meant the
mountains were done and dusted, and they slowly disappeared in my rear-view
mirror.


The road headed past Dapeng and through a picturesque region along a famous bike
path rumoured to be the most expensive bicycle path in the world. I assumed the
cost was due to the path being constructed on stilts over the water.


Linyuan – Tainan - 74km

It took forever to cycle through Kaohsiung. Eventually, the road cleared the city
limits from where a less congested route proceeded to Tainan.


The area was pan-flat but the route led straight into a headwind. It wasn’t as pretty
as the east coast and it was best to put one’s head down and get on with it. Tainan
was Taiwan’s first capital and the country’s oldest city. It is thus steeped in history
and tradition.

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