Zamboanga City – Vitali – 72 km
Joining tricycles, bicycles, Jeepneys, buses and trucks, I cycled out of town.
Jeepneys, the Philippines’ most popular form of public transport, got their start as
Willys Jeeps left behind when American G.I.s departed. Filipinos recycled them as
buses sporting benches with room for 20 (or more) passengers. They were colourful
and plentiful.
Filipinos drive on the right-hand side of the road and a roadside motorbike shop
changed my bike’s mirror to the left-hand side. Once again, the owner warned me
not to camp and advised me to go to Vitali and check at the police station where to
stay.
While morning pollution hung thick in the air, I followed my nose north, out of large
and busy Zamboanga City. The countryside made for stunning riding, and numerous
small settlements flanked both sides of the highway. Now and then, these
communities made way for emerald green rice paddies. Water buffalo waddled in
muddy puddles and tricycles carted kids to and from school. Amazingly, even the
smallest village had a school.
As was the case on my first day in a new country, photo stops were countless. The
Philippines was incredibly photogenic, and one could quickly fill a 36GB card. Nothing
much came of the mountains warned about, and the gradient was reasonably even,
though hilly.
At around 15h00, dark clouds gathered, and I could see a thunderstorm
approaching. Mercifully, Vitali came before the rain and consisted of a fair-sized
village offering plenty of food vendors. Police directions were to a karaoke bar that
provided rooms above. As could be expected of a room above a karaoke bar, the
room was noisy, dark and dingy, with three-quarter cardboard walls. The owners
were, nevertheless, super friendly. At the end of the hallway was a large water
container, where one could scoop out the water to use as a shower. Supper was a
takeaway rice meal eaten on the balcony overlooking the road. Soon three others
joined and watched each morsel I consumed. Finally, I decided to take myself off to
my semi-private room where, at least, one could eat without being observed.