058 Cycle Touring Philippines

(Leana) #1

Camiguin Island


CDO – Balingoan – Ferry to Benoni, Camiguin Island – 90 km

Departing CDO was stressful as one needed to weave through the Jeepneys,
tricycles, busses and trucks. Stopping at a sari-sari store to fill my water bottle
and purchase a boiled egg for breakfast, the reality of a foreign culture became
noticeably clear. To my surprise and utter horror (and to the amusement of
onlookers), the egg turned out balut - a half-boiled duck embryo in the shell.
However, no encouragement from the villagers could get me to devour the soupy
foetus. I understood a person was supposed to crack open the top and drink the
soup before consuming the embryo and its eggy surrounds.


On seeing properties sporting vast piles of coconut shells, and smoke billowing
from boilers or shacks, my curiosity got the better of me and I stopped to look at
what was happening. Upon closer inspection, it turned out charcoal made from
coconut shells, explaining the smoke.


The route continued, past more stores, selling delicious-looking food as well as the
famed balut. Filipinos like their food, and it appeared unthinkable to go anywhere
without taking food along (albeit their portions were relatively small). Roadside
stores sold all the favourites. On counters, dishes were neatly displayed from big
to small. These usually contain fried fish, fried chicken, pork (in various forms),
veggies and noodles.


From the small town of Balingoan, a ferry departed for Camiguin Island. A boat
was waiting and a ticket was hurriedly purchased. Although a short ferry ride, the
time was already half past four on reaching Camiguin Island. A nipa hut upon stilts
over the water lured me in and I thought life could indeed be worse.

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