Julianapark, and afterwards picked up fresh rolls at a bakkerij on
our way back. The whisky and jenever (gin) tasting at Ut Hein went
down a treat as well. Although dining out was always an option,
cooking, eating and drinking together on board was cheaper and
hands down more fun, and our meals, always paired with Dutch
craft beer or excellent wine, became an anticipated ritual.
There are a few tasty traditional dishes worth trying, like snert
(thick pea soup) and Fryske dúmkes
(spiced cookies). Friesland is also known
for its dairy products – cheese is a staple
and cream runs a close second, dolloped
with abandon on cakes, desserts and
soups or served with an espresso in a shot
glass on the side. We ate and drank it all
and were not sorry.
Back in Hindeloopen, the second-
smallest town in the Eleven Cities enclave,
we took advantage of our remaining time
to explore. Situated on the breezy shores
of the inland bay known as IJsselmeer,
it’s an Eldorado for kiteboarders and
windsurfers, with a captivating fairy-tale
atmosphere, cobbled streets, arched
wooden bridges and quaint waterfront. We went large on prawns
and patat frites for lunch that day, met a sheep that posed for a selfie
and stopped for a chat with a Frisian elder in traditional garb, quite
a common sight in that neck of the woods.
A floating holiday is the very essence of slow travel, and our
placid meander was soothing to the core. Friesland turned out
to be a little gem with a big heart, begging to be added to your
bucket list.OneofFriesland’smajordrawcardsis the Elfensteden, or Eleven
Cities,whichhaveearnedtheirgrander titles through historical
significanceratherthansize.Populations range from 715 in Sloten
to 107000 inLeeuwarden,whichwasone of the EU’s Cultural
CapitalsofEuropefor2018.Wevisitedfive of them, plus other
lesser-knownvillagessuchasWoudsend, and were completely
enchantedbytheirpostcardprettinessand impressive tourist
offerings.Frommuseums,heritagesites,
cathedralsandmemorialstoartgalleries,
outdoormarketsandbig-brandand
specialitystores,thesediminutive
destinationshadnoshortageofthingsto
do,seeandbuy.
Frieslandhasitsfairshareof
architecturalwonders:thestatuesque
ZeldenrustWindmillinDokkum,
builtin1862;the1920sWoudagemaal
pumpingstationinLemmer;the
WaterpoortgatehouseinSneek;and
severalmedievalandRomanesque
churchesandcathedralsthatdwarfthe
neathousessotypicaloftheregion.
The11Fountainsartproject,
a celebrationofFriesland’sculturalcelebrity status, was unveiled
inMay 2018 ineachoftheElevenCities, fashioned by well-known
internationalartistssuchasLucy+ Jorge Orta from UK/Argentina
andShinjiOhmakifromJapan.InSloten, we chanced upon the
ColorfieldPerformance,anexhibitionof 499 paintings displayed
onoversizedeaselsina sprawlingmeadow alongside the canal.
Tomixthingsupa bit,inBolswardwe unhitched the bikes
andpedalledalongthemainstreetandinto the coolness of the
‘We hung out
on deck with
filter coffee and
stroopwafels,
reading, napping
or birdwatching’
ABOVEThere are more than 1000 traditional windmills still in service in Holland, to drain lakes and swamps which creates and maintains land.
100 M AY 2 0 1 9
Travel NETHERLANDS