Getaway May_2019

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herbivores – their horns look like they’ve been

styled in a 1950s hair salon, and they always seem

bored to death with people staring at them.

One of the prominent features at Sábiè is the

black cotton soil, and yes, it’s good for growing

cotton, but not for vehicles in the rainy season

when it turns to sludge. I also observed that the

relatively recent history of this area still makes

itself ‘heard’ with cotton stalks dotting the land,

which was ploughed for production during

Portuguese rule. Peter drove us up to the remains

of the farmhouse, which sits on a hill overlooking

a plain and is used for overnighting on 4x4 safaris.

Two bougainvillea trees have survived the harsh

environment – the red flowers against the dry

parched earth were startling. I wondered about the

people who had tended these plants in that time.

More history pops up, quite literally, at

Corumana Dam. The remains of two Portuguese

trading posts protrude from the water, one of

which was a bakery, which once served travellers

along this oxwagon trade route. When the

71-square-kilometre dam is expanded to supply

more water to Maputo’s ever-increasing

population, this part of history will be completely

submerged. According to Peter, Sir Percy

FitzPatrick’s adventures (Jock of the Bushveld) to

Lourenço Marques (now known as Maputo) would

have taken him on this route.

On my final afternoon, we sat eating Taps’

gigantic sandwiches, packed with fresh

ingredients, for lunch under a sycamore fig (its

fruit is loved by birds and monkeys). We were in

the north of the park on the edge of the Masintonto

River, where herds of ellies come to drink. We got

up to walk further into the gorge, surprising two

Sharpe’s grysbok (royal game in Mozambique, and

extremely rare). They raced up the rocks and

disappeared before I could take their picture.

‘Michelle, you’ve really got to up your game,’

laughed Peter.

GettinGthere

I flew from Cape Town to

Nelspruiton SAA (from R5 000

return,travelstart.co.za). It’s

105kmfrom Nelspruitto the

Komatipoortborderpost, and

then another127kmto Sábiè.

needtoknow

The road from the Mozambican

borderpost to Moambois

newly tarredand good. From

Moamboto Sábiè there’star

and gravel,with corrugated

bits. If you don’t want to drive

this section,you can be

collectedand transferredto the

park. Your vehiclewill be left in

a safe place in Moambo.The

camp has Wi-Fi. Malariais

presentso take prophylactics.

whentoGo

The best time is from April

to October

Stayhe re

Bhejane Luxury Tented

Camp has six en-suites, all in

a tranquil private setting, and

within a few metres of the

waterhole where game comes

to drink. Sábiè’s opening special

for Getaway readers is

R2 950 pp, including all meals,

all beverages, game activities

and airstrip transfers. 064-687-

6596,sabieparkmoz.com

do thiS

View game. There are daily

drives, morning and afternoon,

and also at night (no self-drive).

Go fishing. Catching tiger is

best between October and

April in Sabie River, about 10km

from camp (there’s also bream

and barbel). Rods and tackle

can be hired for R150 per day.

Do a wilderness trail. This fully

catered walking adventure is

for three nights and four days

(R7 000 pp).

Take a cultural tour. The

Mangalane community will

welcome you into one of their

villages, plus you may even get

a ride in a traditional ox cart.

Supplied