Microwave
Much has been said about fiber-agitating cooking by microwave. Some suggest
that because of its speed and lack of water/steam exposure, this method retains
the most nutrients. Others counter that while that may be marginally true, it is
equally true that the texture of the plant is changed. Both are true.
Heat is developed by the microwaves’ rubbing fiber on fiber. It’s cooking by
friction, and for plants, the entire piece cooks at exactly the same time all the way
through. This process is what changes the texture. Because normal heat pene
trates gradually, you tend to get a softer exterior and a firmer center. Microwaving
provides a slight change from what we know as normal.
I most often use my microwave to partially cook—or start—certain foods.
For instance, I take a good-size russet potato (8 ounces) and cook at full power
for 7 minutes, then turn it over for a further 1 minute. I let it rest for another
minute and then cut it in half lengthwise. I then cut deeply into the exposed (still
just undercooked) flesh, brush it with olive oil and sprinkle on paprika and sea
salt, and slip it under a broiler to brown for about 5 minutes. In 15 minutes, I
have a quick and attractive alternative to a baked potato in its jacket, which would
have taken about 1 hour. I do the same with winter squash to ease the cutting
process; I then seed, season, and roast.
Using this method, I save time while allowing for a more natural texture and
the addition of browning and seasoning absorption that would otherwise be lost
by straight-through microwaving.
I must add here that the microwave promises speed and to some extent deliv
ers. But if speed becomes the central goal, then much of what we know to be the
great sensual benefits of cooking could be lost, and eventually we will hand over
our entire food supply to those who will do it for us. When speed rules, it quite
logically blazes a path for convenience, which in turn eventually displaces scratch
cooking and its fresh ingredients.52 • GROWING AT THE SPEED OF LIFE