Thermal (Hay Box) Cooking
For thermal cooking, you will definitely need a piece of equipment currently
made by Thermos. I own two units, which I find extremely useful as an alternative
to the slow cookers that tend, in my opinion, to overcook, especially vegetables.
Since I use it often, I’ve included it for interest’s sake; it is by no means a recom
mended essential.
The hay box is a well-insulated thermal container that can hold two stainlesssteel covered saucepans of 20-cup capacity. Vegetables are brought to a boil in a
carefully (lightly) seasoned broth or water. (I love to leave the vegetables in
large—2- to 3-inch—chunks.) The container is sealed with a very thick lid. You
can then go to work—and 6–7 hours later return to vegetables cooked entirely
(quite soft) but still in their original shape. The cooking liquid is superb as a clear
soup, and each vegetable—say, carrot, parsnip, turnip, rutabaga, or cabbage—
will have shared its flavor with its neighbor—lovely stuff.
Again, a spritz of olive oil or a sprinkling of fresh herbs will be enough to
serve them as is. Any surplus can be mashed together for a perfect creamed (with
out cream) side dish of absolute smoothness or a good soup base.
Braise
This moist-heat method starts with browning the vegetables in oil, then cooking
covered in the oven or on the stovetop (also known as poële) with liquid. Par
ticularly when a stock is used, as the liquid and herbs are added, the fl avors com
bine and penetrate the vegetables and enrich the cooking liquid as it reduces.
I cut the vegetables into about a 1-inch dice and briefly shallow fry (see
“Sauté” on page 54) in just enough ordinary olive oil to stop them from sticking,
about 2 teaspoons for four portions in a nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skil
let. When just lightly browned, I add a clove or two of chopped garlic and 1 level
tablespoon of grated gingerroot, stir briefly, and then add a good vegetable stock
(see page 288) to half cover. Add a dusting of sea salt and a fresh herb of your
COOKING METHODS FOR MAXIMUM FLAVOR AND NUTRITION • 53