Jinghong – Puwen – 105 km
Ernest never showed up and, unsure if he was around, I pedalled out of town. Without
a map, following the highway was best, but 20 kilometres further police kicked me off
the motorway and I continued via the old road. The path led through tea plantations
and rice paddies, roughly in a northerly direction, or so I hoped. The route hugged a
nature reserve most of the way, making it a breath-taking ride, albeit not knowing
where my path led. I understood this was the only tropical rainforest nature reserve in
China.
The best part of the day was spent pedalling uphill, a slow and tedious task. By 5
o'clock, I slinked into Puwen, a small hamlet that mercifully had basic
accommodation. Once in a room, I smiled when listening to the village sounds. An old
man was wailing in the backyard, chicks chirped, children laughed, and it wasn't long
until one started crying. It could've been anywhere (apart from the wailing man that
is).
October 1 was China's National Day. At the time of my visit, the country celebrated
the 60th anniversary of the PRC. TV mainly showed preparation for a weeklong
festival and featured pro-China documentaries and speeches (like any other country).
Puwen - Unknown village – 90 km
Without a map and no means to read road signs, all one could do was follow the road.
Occasionally, I checked with villagers if I was on the way to Kunming, but people only
stared blankly. It took getting used to the constant attention - this was only day five
in China and the scrutiny was already getting to me.