Lijiang
The plan was to leave this day, but Ernest drank too much rice wine the previous
night and an additional day was spent at Ma-Ma's Naxi Guest House. I spent
much of the day talking to other travellers in the courtyard while continuously
being fed fruit and tea by Ma-Ma. Ma-Ma was, obviously, in charge and
consistently busy organising lifts to the bus or train station, or organising bus and
plane tickets for travellers. Ba-Ba did the driving or dozed in front of the TV.
Amazingly, Lijiang was a great place to hang out, given how immensely touristy it
was. I loved not being stared at, something I became a tad tired of in the
countryside. At least, in Lijiang there were thousands of tourists.
Lijiang – Mountain Camp – 61 km
Following being fed coffee and banana pancakes by Ma-Ma (all free of charge),
she sent us on our way with a bag of fruit. Then, back on the bikes, we resumed
our journey in Lugu Lake's direction, home to the Mosu. I believed the Mosu was
the last practising matriarchal society in the world. After reading "Leaving Mother
Lake", a fascinating account of the author's childhood memoirs growing up in that
remote part of China, I was keen to investigate the area.
Following a long descent, the path crossed the Yangzi River from where it climbed
40 kilometres up a mountain pass. The climb was 1,700 metres to an altitude of
over 3,000 metres, along a rough, cobblestone road. Heavens, who still paves
using such rocks? Not a cyclist! A plain, old dirt road would've sufficed. The going
was dreadfully slow, and halfway up the hill, I called it quits and set up camp.
Being a mountainous area, trucks and busses frequently stopped to fill their
water tanks required for the water-cooled brakes. These places made for suitable
camping, as there were usually toilets, water and, at times, basic food. It,
however, came with loads of bus passengers all wanting to chat and with
invitations to pose with them.