Eventually, a hamlet offering basic rooms emerged. It appeared a rarity to see
foreigners as we were stared at to no end. The two scruffy-looking cyclists were
undoubtedly the topic of conversation as we unloaded our heavy bikes and carted
our bags up the stairs to the room. Our every move was watched, and every item
purchased was discussed at length. What a spectacle we must've made.
Unknown town – Roadside Camp – 93 km
Under scrutiny, we loaded the bikes, waved goodbye to the onlookers and took a
reasonably obscure path, which followed the river in the direction of Leibo.
Though mostly downhill, the way was in terrible condition and the going slow.
The ride nonetheless remained stunning and little headway was made due to
frequent stops to admire the view as the gorge became deeper and steeper.
The weather worsened as we descended into the Jinsha River valley and heavy
fog engulfed the entire area. There were plenty of settlements along the river,
none of which I'm sure has ever seen a Western tourist. However, being Friday
and market day, we spotted plenty of folk on loaded horses. Others carried large
baskets piled high with noodles and plastic basins on their backs – en route from
the market to their mountainside villages.
As usual, a surprise awaited at the end of the day! The descent abruptly ended,
and our route left the gorge and snaked up the mountainside to Leibo. This was
orange country and along the way there weren't just orange orchards but also
stalls, selling delicious oranges. At least that part of the road looked brand new,
making riding more comfortable. In fading light, the tents were pitched at a truck
stop (to the villagers' great amusement). We were given bottled water, bananas
and, of course, a flask of hot water and they pulled up chairs and settled in to
watch our nightly routine. I kid you not! We could’ve been mistaken for the
circus.