014 Cycle Touring Egypt e-book

(Leana) #1

(^8) Aswan – Edfu – 116 km

Three days and many Stellas (the local beer) later, we finally got underway and
biked the 116 kilometres to Edfu. The route was a well-maintained tarmac road
next to the Nile. In stark contrast to Sudan, the landscape featured green crops of
sugarcane, corn, rice, clover, and even mint. Our path led close to the palm-lined
Nile, sporting excellent views more or less the entire day.

In the process, we cycled past the rare double temple of Kom Ombo, constructed
between 180-47 BC. It was further in this vicinity where more than three hundred
crocodile mummies were discovered. The whole way felt like one endless village,
and barely ever did one get the feeling you were in the countryside, the exact
opposite of Sudan. Halfway through the ride, police insisted upon escorting us to
Edfu, where our arrival was announced by sirens blaring. The Egyptians can make
a meal of practically anything.

Edfu was known for its ancient Edfu Temple constructed between 237-257 BC and
dedicated to Horus, the falcon-headed god. Ancient Egyptians believed the temple
was built where the battle between Horus and Seth took place. So, arriving under
police escort with flashing lights and sirens wailing, we felt like two Egyptian gods.
Edfu - Luxor – 122 km

The last day of 2007 arrived, and I couldn’t believe it had been nine months since
leaving home. Looking out of the bedroom window at a view of the Temple of
Horus, I realised how much my life had changed in this relatively short period, not
something I was sorry about.
The way north continued along the Nile with opportunities to escape police escorts
by following smaller paths. It wasn’t that the police didn’t notice us, but more a
case that if we didn’t pass in front of them, stopping us wasn’t in their job
description.

Finally, Luxor was reached in the dying moments of the day. Under the impression
the campsite was on the opposite side of the river, we hopped onto a ferry to the
West Bank. There was, however, no campsite and another ferry boat ride (this
time a public ferry at a fraction of the cost) took us back to where a bed at the
New Everest Hotel became home for the night. I’m sure the name referred to the
stairs one had to climb, not something I appreciated at such a late hour.

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