014 Cycle Touring Egypt e-book

(Leana) #1

(^22) Desert Camp - Ras Gharib – 52 km

The coastal route took us to Ras Gharib, an oil production town along the Red Sea
coast. Unfortunately, the day was again marred by a gale-force wind. Although a
mere 52 kilometres to the next town, it was considerably further than what I cared
to go in such conditions. Moreover, I weakened at the thought of a clean and warm
room.
Ras Gharib – Desert Camp - 72 km

The following morning the panniers were packed reluctantly. I suggested waiting
out the weather, but Ernest wanted nothing of it. I’m unsure what his hurry was as
we weren’t going anywhere.

I, subsequently, discovered this was a typical mindset amongst cycle tourers early
in their journey. Many bicycle tourers are first destination-minded, and time and
distance are all-important, allowing little time to sightsee and explore. That said,
everyone cycles in their own way; some go slow, exploring and experiencing new
cultures, food and sights, while others go fast and challenge themselves. For
Ernest, it was very much about the latter. These are minor differences that, if not
discussed beforehand, can ruin a cycling partnership.
Seventy-two kilometres were all we could manage and towards the end of the day
we imagined a huge dune could provide shelter from the howling wind. However,
the dune did little to stop the wind and instead created a whirling effect and in no
time at all, the tents, bikes and sleeping bags were covered in sand. Eventually,
Ernest managed to light the stove and as could be expected, the food came with a
generous sprinkling of sand. Chewing our grainy meal, I was grateful we’d
something to eat and when darkness fell, we crawled into our sandy beds.

Desert Camp – Zaafarana – 40 km

From our sandy home, the distance was a meagre 38 kilometres to Zaafarana,
more a truck stop than a village. I couldn’t believe the wind was even stronger on
this day. I honestly didn’t think it was possible.
I complained nonstop. Ernest never said a word, only put his head down and
grinded into the unforgiving conditions - me following in his wake, swearing to the
wind.

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