I Am Citrus ...
The Great
Illusionist
By Kate Lowenstein
and Daniel Gritzer
G
ather round, one and all; our
show is about to begin. Prepare
to be dazzled, prepare to be
dazed, but we warn you—we citrus
are masters of disguise and experts at
sleight of hand. You think you know
us, but no, you do not.
Behold this deck of cards. Pictured
on each card is a different one of us:
yuzu, kumquat, kaffir lime, and Meyer
lemon; satsuma, Minneola, tangelo,
and Sumo orange. What names! What
flamboyant colors and sweet, bright
juiciness! Not to boast, but have you
ever met one of us you didn’t like? OK,
there was that bitter orange you had
the poor sense to bite into once—we
admit, we can be astringent.
But all that variety is just an illu-
sion. Here, pick a card. Ah! You got
grapefruit, as large as a softball in
your hand and bittersweet on your
tongue. So distinctive and yet—what’s
this? Your grapefruit is nothing but a
cross between the pomelo and the
sweet orange!
This sleight of hand, you see, is
our greatest trick. All the variations,
colors, shapes, and flavors of us are
nothing more than a shuffling of our
four basic building blocks—the spade,
club, diamond, and heart of citrus, if
you will. And, dear audience, can you
guess the fab four? Not a chance, not
a chance! They are pomelo, mandarin,
citron, and papeda.
They all have their roots in Asia, be-
fore nature and humans crossed them
over and over again to create citrusy
Kaffi
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36 april 2020 | rd.com
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Photographs by Joleen Zubek